Cult of the Cougar
Wild cougars have the widest range
of any mammal in the Americas.
AKA pumas, panthers & mt. lions,
these strong cats roam freely
delighting in the wonders of the world.
Cult of the Cougar is devoted to
this adventurous way of life.
of any mammal in the Americas.
AKA pumas, panthers & mt. lions,
these strong cats roam freely
delighting in the wonders of the world.
Cult of the Cougar is devoted to
this adventurous way of life.
About Us
Rebekah Antrosio and Jessica Christianson are high school friends who recently reacquainted at a schoolmate's wedding. A common love of travel and adventure inspired these ladies to plan a van-dwelling open-ended road trip along the Pan American highway.
Cult of the Cougar
The End of the Road
After 1 year, 9 months and 22 days, we have come to the end of our journey. Thanks so much for your enthusiastic support. May all our next adventures be incredible!
Here are consolidated links to the archives, or you can use the more detailed catagories on the left sidebar.
Alaska Marine Highway - Cross-Gulf - Juneau to Whittier
For the last leg of our journey, we boarded the MV Kennicott in the capital city of Juneau for the 40 trip across the Gulf of Alaska. The first thing we noticed is that they tied all the cars down, in case of rough seas. The Kennicott is newer and built for the cross-gulf trip, with more enclosed areas, including the solarium, which made it somewhat cramped. We were thankful we had booked a small "roomette" with bunkbeds for sleeping.
Throughout the Lynn Canal and Icy Strait, there was lots of whale, sea otter and porpoise activity. The humpbacks were bubble net feeding, surfacing and even breaching!
The Glacier Bay area is amazing and diverse with snowy glaciers and treed cliffs all backed by tall snowy peaks.
We stopped in the small town of Yakutat and visited the National Park office for both Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias. Upon leaving the bay, we were treated to fantastic views of the St. Elias range.
The weather was perfect and the seas were calm, only getting to five feet. Mostly it was smooth as glass and a beautiful ride into Whittier.
Adios!
Hoonah
Located just off the Icy Strait on Chichagof Island, the small Tlingit fishing village of Hoonah is so seldomly visited by individual tourists that even the residents wondered why on earth we were there. However, this lack of tourism makes for quiet recreation and a true look into a native fishing community. The first day we cruised the logging roads, making several stops for short walks in the woods. Although we had heard there was a large population of brown bears on the island, we soon realized how true that was. We saw our first bear on the other side of the first boardwalk trail overlooking the creek. Soon we ran into some local ladies who pointed out a couple of bears along the road. We made sure to make a lot of noise on the rest of our hikes! We camped overlooking False Bay where we saw bears, black-tailed deer, bald eagles and humpback whales.
Unnamed boardwalk trail - note bear to the far right
Same boardwalk trail (ISP managed)
Views of Icy Strait from FS 8530
Peat bogs and skunk cabbage
Lower Suntaheen Creek
Wukuklook Creek
Wukuklook Beach
False Bay
False Bay
The next morning we rattled back into town and ran across a deer and a bear warily eyeing each other. We spent an afternoon in town at the Misty Bay Lodge restaurant and the Office bar. The sun was shining which made it “swimming weather” for the locals who expertly jumped off the dock. In the evening we took another Forest Service road out to Freshwater Bay where we camped out on the peninsula.
Sitka black-tailed deer and coastal brown bear
FS Road 8508 Views
Splash!
Freshwater Bay
We took a short walk down to Bear Paw Lake where we spent a peaceful morning watching an ermine running the shore, woodpeckers in the trees and fish jumping in the water. We headed to the marina where we made use of the immaculate laundry and shower facilities. I was delighted to meet up with Jeff, an extended family member who owns and operates a fishing boat in the area. We spent a lovely and interesting evening on the boat eating dinner and chatting. In the morning, we caught the ferry to Juneau, having spent a fascinating time off the beaten track in Hoonah.
Bear Paw Lake
Bear Paw Lake
Views of Hoonah and the harbor
Same boardwalk trail (ISP managed)
Views of Icy Strait from FS 8530
Peat bogs and skunk cabbage
Lower Suntaheen Creek
Wukuklook Creek
Wukuklook Beach
False Bay
False Bay
The next morning we rattled back into town and ran across a deer and a bear warily eyeing each other. We spent an afternoon in town at the Misty Bay Lodge restaurant and the Office bar. The sun was shining which made it “swimming weather” for the locals who expertly jumped off the dock. In the evening we took another Forest Service road out to Freshwater Bay where we camped out on the peninsula.
Sitka black-tailed deer and coastal brown bear
FS Road 8508 Views
Splash!
Freshwater Bay
We took a short walk down to Bear Paw Lake where we spent a peaceful morning watching an ermine running the shore, woodpeckers in the trees and fish jumping in the water. We headed to the marina where we made use of the immaculate laundry and shower facilities. I was delighted to meet up with Jeff, an extended family member who owns and operates a fishing boat in the area. We spent a lovely and interesting evening on the boat eating dinner and chatting. In the morning, we caught the ferry to Juneau, having spent a fascinating time off the beaten track in Hoonah.
Bear Paw Lake
Bear Paw Lake
Views of Hoonah and the harbor
Hoonah marina
Alaska Marine Highway - Wrangell to Hoonah
On Monday morning, we hopped aboard the MV Taku to travel the 26 hours to Hoonah. This ride through the Wrangell narrows is gorgeous, however, a challenge to a cribbage showdown in the bar with a couple of guys from Juneau distracted us from excess photography. We did have to take a break from all our cribbage victories to make a stop at the bakery in Petersburg. While I was afraid my memory might have been exaggerated over time, those ginger snaps are still to die for! The overnight journey was spent on the way to Sitka, and after a bit of rain, the skies cleared and we were lucky to see lots of surfacing whales and porpoises on the way to the dock in Hoonah.
Wrangell
My favorite spot in southeast Alaska is without a doubt the charming berg of Wrangell. This quaint, quiet town offers just enough infrastructure and commerce combined with sweeping views and a bevy of outdoor activities. Situated near the mouth of the mighty Stikine river, Wrangell is a hidden gem for those looking for world-class salmon and halibut fishing.
Downtown Wrangell
Arriving on a Sunday afternoon, most of the businesses were closed, but we enjoyed excellent pizza and beer on the patio at the Marine Bar.
Wrangell Marina
The Marine Bar
For the night, we drove up to Nemo Point on Forest Service land and were delighted to find immaculately maintained campsites high above the Zimovia Strait. I have to say it is one of the most exceptional places I have ever camped. We built a campfire with the free provided firewood, watched the sunset over the water and listened to the birdcalls echoing across the strait.
Trail up to the last campsites
Zimovia Strait
Our campsite
Campfire!
Sunset over the strait
In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast at the Diamond C Café, which is for sale, although you will have to beat me to it as I doubt I can resist returning to this phenomenal part of the world!
Downtown Wrangell
Arriving on a Sunday afternoon, most of the businesses were closed, but we enjoyed excellent pizza and beer on the patio at the Marine Bar.
Wrangell Marina
The Marine Bar
For the night, we drove up to Nemo Point on Forest Service land and were delighted to find immaculately maintained campsites high above the Zimovia Strait. I have to say it is one of the most exceptional places I have ever camped. We built a campfire with the free provided firewood, watched the sunset over the water and listened to the birdcalls echoing across the strait.
Trail up to the last campsites
Zimovia Strait
Our campsite
Campfire!
Sunset over the strait
Zimovia Strait
In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast at the Diamond C Café, which is for sale, although you will have to beat me to it as I doubt I can resist returning to this phenomenal part of the world!
Alaska Marine Highway – Bellingham to Wrangell
As we were driving up to Bellingham to catch the ferry to Alaska, we idly wondered who and what would be on the boat. Since all vehicles have to check in three hours early, we had plenty of time to peruse the parking lot. Most cars were packed to the gills including many items piled and tied on top, although conversely the “tourist” cars had almost nothing in them. The oddest vehicle was a trailer full of huge Belgian and Percheron horses who were on their way from Spokane to Ketchikan to pull the tourist trolley. We had decided earlier to not get a cabin, so we headed up to the solarium to snag a couple of deck chairs. With a sleeping bag and a Thermarest, the front row under the heaters provided a fresh breeze with enough warmth to enjoy two days of panoramic views.
The solarium
Our awesome setup
Sparkly!
Sunrise in the passage
The solarium
Our awesome setup
Sparkly!
Sunrise in the passage
With the sun rising at 4 a.m. and a 46 hour ride to Wrangell; we had plenty of time to get to know our neighbors on the deck and also some folks from down below. The bar on the MV Matanuska spans the width of the boat with windows on both sides, which makes for an enjoyable atmosphere where people gather to socialize, play games and various in-house instruments. There is an easy camaraderie aboard the boat, with everyone sharing their stories, destinations and plans. Some were chasing work, some returning from a winter in the lower 48 and even others moving to Alaska, sight unseen, simply looking for a new life and opportunities.
As we motored through the inside passage, we settled in to the slow rocking of the boat. It is amazing how much action there is in the channel when you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. Remote logging operations occasionally fill the water with wood debris. Everything happens via the water, including moving a house (hotel?). As we got further north we began to see porpoises and humpback whales and were even graced with a couple of orcas alongside the boat.
Commerce on the water
Orcas!
As we motored through the inside passage, we settled in to the slow rocking of the boat. It is amazing how much action there is in the channel when you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. Remote logging operations occasionally fill the water with wood debris. Everything happens via the water, including moving a house (hotel?). As we got further north we began to see porpoises and humpback whales and were even graced with a couple of orcas alongside the boat.
Commerce on the water
Orcas!
British Columbia. Super. Natural.
After a mere 38 hours, the Matanuska made its first stop in Ketchikan, which was dwarfed by two massive cruise ships in port. I am continually shocked by the size of those vessels, and in Alaska, how big they are in comparison to the tiny towns they stop in. Taking advantage of the sunny day, we enjoyed a stellar few hours atop the deck on the rest of our journey to the lovely town of Wrangell.
Downtown Ketchikan
Views toward Mitkof Island
After a mere 38 hours, the Matanuska made its first stop in Ketchikan, which was dwarfed by two massive cruise ships in port. I am continually shocked by the size of those vessels, and in Alaska, how big they are in comparison to the tiny towns they stop in. Taking advantage of the sunny day, we enjoyed a stellar few hours atop the deck on the rest of our journey to the lovely town of Wrangell.
Downtown Ketchikan
Views toward Mitkof Island
Wrangell
Sandpoint
A leisurely trip through the town of my birth brought back a flood of memories. I grew up across the border in Montana in a tiny town with few services so at the time Sandpoint was the go-to shopping, medical, entertainment and business destination. I was thrilled to find many of the same establishments alive and well. Between the mountains, the lake and a quaint but sophisticated downtown area, Sandpoint has everything to offer tourists and residents alike. Although I do admit to a hefty bias. 
For those of you who haven't been to the Panhandle in awhile, here's a quick trip down memory lane...
Sandpoint City Beach - I remember learning to swim here, which was more like just wading for me.
Railroad tracks across Lake Pend Orielle
The local "department" store
The market - still sparsely populated, but a beautiful building nonetheless
Ah, the theater!
Carrot juice, anyone?
The Granary - the best place to buy your chicken feed! (Now defunct)
My favorite is always the police blotter of the local paper
Yes, the Hydra still exists - and looks exactly the same inside!
Mmmmm....pie
Eve's Leaves!
The docks from the bridge to the beach and the old Garden restaurant building
For those of you who haven't been to the Panhandle in awhile, here's a quick trip down memory lane...Sandpoint City Beach - I remember learning to swim here, which was more like just wading for me.
Railroad tracks across Lake Pend Orielle
The local "department" store
The market - still sparsely populated, but a beautiful building nonetheless
Ah, the theater!
Carrot juice, anyone?
The Granary - the best place to buy your chicken feed! (Now defunct)
My favorite is always the police blotter of the local paper
Yes, the Hydra still exists - and looks exactly the same inside!
Mmmmm....pie
Eve's Leaves!
The docks from the bridge to the beach and the old Garden restaurant building
Glacier National Park
After spending a fabulous five days in McAllister with the magnificent Morrisons, we headed up Seeley-Swan toward Glacier National Park. Like Yellowstone, only half of the park’s roads were open because it was early in the season. This precluded us from going all the way to “the Sun”, but the trade-off was certainly the lack of visitors. Winter camping is in the Apgar day use area.
Yellowstone National Park
Spanning three states, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, Yellowstone National Park was established in 1872 as America's first national park. The park is an internationally famous landmark and is one of the most visited parks in the United States. Yellowstone is home to a large variety of wildlife, extraordinary geysers and hot springs, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.Since the south entrance to the park is not open until mid-May, we headed from Jackson over Teton Pass into Idaho to hit the opening day of the west entrance. We immediately saw elk, bison and even a couple of wolves.
We stayed near Mammoth Hot Springs in the only campground in the park open year-round, which although nice, was situated a bit too close to the road for my tastes. However the campground put us within walking distance of the geothermal features in the area, which can be accessed from a series of boardwalks. At Mammoth Hot Springs, a rarer kind of spring is born when the hot water ascends through ancient limestone deposits to produce a strikingly unique landscape of flowing waters sculpting magnificent travertine limestone terraces.
We were thrilled to find the road to the canyon overlooks open to vehicle traffic. The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is an astounding sight, with rushing waterfalls and the vast canyon showing off the yellow rocks that give the park its name. The colors in the canyon are also a result of hydrothermal alteration which is, in effect, oxidation; the canyon is rusting. Most of the yellows in the canyon are the result of iron present in the rock rather than sulfur, as many people think.
Of course a visit to Old Faithful is a requisite of almost any visit to Yellowstone. With half of the earth’s geothermal features, the park holds the planet’s most diverse and intact collection of geysers, hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles. These amazing features combined with the everpresent wildlife make Yellowstone is a place like no other and a magical park to visit and enjoy.
We were thrilled to find the road to the canyon overlooks open to vehicle traffic. The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is an astounding sight, with rushing waterfalls and the vast canyon showing off the yellow rocks that give the park its name. The colors in the canyon are also a result of hydrothermal alteration which is, in effect, oxidation; the canyon is rusting. Most of the yellows in the canyon are the result of iron present in the rock rather than sulfur, as many people think.
Of course a visit to Old Faithful is a requisite of almost any visit to Yellowstone. With half of the earth’s geothermal features, the park holds the planet’s most diverse and intact collection of geysers, hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles. These amazing features combined with the everpresent wildlife make Yellowstone is a place like no other and a magical park to visit and enjoy.
Old Faithful
Jackson Hole – Grand Teton National Park
Glacial lakes, jagged peaks and migrating elk define the landscape in the Teton Valley. The “off-season” in Jackson is short, lasting only the month of April but it remains a fantastic time to visit. Although the ski resorts have just closed and the park roads are not yet open to motorized vehicles, the majestic peaks and broad valleys are in full glory. The weather can be a bit a fickle this time of year. We descended into Jackson in a driving snowstorm only to wake up the next day to sunny to sixty degrees.
Bringing some snow into town
It’s a great time for deep hotel and dining discounts in town. We enjoyed the historic Wort Hotel and their classic Silver Dollar Bar. Just outside of town, the National Elk Refuge protects the southern reaches of their winter migration route and huge herds (>3000 head) can still be seen. And of course, the showpiece of the valley, Grand Teton National Park, which happens to be one of my favorite places on the planet. The tranquility and splendor of this region always warrant a stop, regardless of the season.
Grand Teton National Park
The Teton Range
Bringing some snow into town
It’s a great time for deep hotel and dining discounts in town. We enjoyed the historic Wort Hotel and their classic Silver Dollar Bar. Just outside of town, the National Elk Refuge protects the southern reaches of their winter migration route and huge herds (>3000 head) can still be seen. And of course, the showpiece of the valley, Grand Teton National Park, which happens to be one of my favorite places on the planet. The tranquility and splendor of this region always warrant a stop, regardless of the season.
Grand Teton National Park
The Teton Range