8/30/08 – 9/3/08 Kenai Peninsula

After procuring some groceries at Fred Meyer, our store of choice on this trip, we headed out on Route 1, the Seward Highway.  The road winds along the northeast side of the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet with the Chugach State Park and National Forest on the landward side.  The mountain and water views were magnificent and larger than life, to the point that trying to capture it on film seemed quite futile.  As it was a beautiful sunny day, and the Saturday of the Labor Day weekend, there were plenty of people out, both in cars and fishing in the streams. 

The Kenai Peninsula definitely has a unique look all its own, from the marshes to the towering mountains speckled with snow patches.  These mountains hold the Harding ice field, which is larger than the state of Rhode Island and a half-mile deep.  Our plan was to climb up to this ice field so we took Hwy 9 towards Seward and the Kenai Fjords National Park.  We arrived at the walk-in tent only campsite in the evening and were fortunate to find one spot out of the twelve unoccupied.  After setting up our gear, we proceeded to the visitor’s center to take the trail up to the Exit Glacier.  A moderate hike takes you to the edge of the glacier, where the blue hues, rushing water and sheer magnitude of the glacier are spectacular and well-worth the hike.  Be warned that it is windy and cold near the glacier and dress appropriately.

After a raucous evening spent at the central dining shelter with Troop 216 of the Anchorage Boy Scouts, we woke to rain.  Having gotten the Harding Icefield trail conditions from some hikers the previous day, we opted to not go on the hike due to the wetness from both the falling rain and the snow on the last mile on the trail.  We checked out the town of Seward instead, finding a quaint town filled with shops, tourist activities, and a bustling harbor.  Fishing is obviously a big industry here and there is a cannery in Seward for processing, and summer jobs!

The rain continued throughout the night – we stayed mostly dry, but resolved to seal the seams on the tent as soon as possible.  Rising early to catch our boat tour, we drove back into Seward to take the Northwestern Fjord tour through Kenai Fjord Tour Company.  Alas, the winds were at 40 mph and the seas were at 10 feet so the tour was restricted to Resurrection Bay.  Since that would not take us out to the glaciers, we opted for the refund and decided to tour the western side of the peninsula. 

The western side of the peninsula has a bit different terrain, with the boreal forest of the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge dominating the landscape.  While we would have loved to do some of the many hikes in the region, the wind, rain and cold weather persisted and it seemed as though sore throats and congestion were creeping in.  On the opposite side of the tip of the peninsula lies the town of Homer, a village famous for halibut and king salmon fishing.  There is also a large artist community in Homer, evidenced by the numerous funky shops lining the Homer Spit.  After having a beer at the local hangout, Kharacters, the friendly bartender offered to call around to find us a good rate for a hotel room.  He made a deal with the Driftwood Inn and we happily passed out for the night.

With our colds rapidly progressing, we made a rainy and windy trek back to Seward.  After packing up our wet tent, we checked in at the Hotel Seward to dry ourselves and our gear off.  We holed up there for two days, sleeping, playing cribbage and watching Sarah Palin speak at the RNC.  Along with the sun, we have emerged this morning, brighter and cheerier and ready for new adventures.