On our way out of Valdez, we drove over to the other side of the bay, near the Solomon Gulch Hydroelectric Project and Fish Hatchery and the edge of the Valdez Marine Terminal.  The dam for the hydroelectric project is located high on the cliffs above the bay and an ominous sign warns visitors of the impending disaster should the dam fail.  We also noted the odd mph sign at the start of the Valdez Marine Terminal which read, Speed Limit 29. 

The bay was full of sea lions, sea otters and swans which was a nice farewell to Valdez.  We headed out in the rain toward the pass.  However, as we started our ascent over Thompson Pass, the sky cleared and we were treated to the bright colors of the changing autumn landscape, fully illuminated by the sun. 

Turning east onto the Edgerton Highway, we travelled on paved road to Chitina.  Once an important mining town for the ore from Kennecott mines, Chitina is now almost a ghost town, but hanging on with a few businesses to serve locals and visitors to Wrangell St. Elias National Park.  The historic ranger station was closed so we headed out across the Copper River (famous for Copper River salmon of course!) and onto the McCarthy Road.  The McCarthy Road is one of two unpaved roads that provide access into Wrangell St. Elias and leads to the community of McCarthy and the old mining town of Kennicott.  (The town of Kennicott and the Kennecott mining company are separated by a spelling error.)  Full of potholes, washboards, roller coaster turns and other hazards, the McCarthy road is certainly an adventurous and rattling drive.  Be prepared to travel slowly and carefully to avoid damage to your vehicle, but this will also allow many spottings of arctic hares, beavers, ptarmigans and other wildlife.

The McCarthy road ends 60 miles into the park at the Kennicott river.  While the McCarthy residents pay for and have access to a vehicle bridge, travel for visitors is restricted to a footbridge.  The park visitors center is not open in the winter but has informational signs posted and brochures available in boxes outside the office.  The visitors center is the furthest from the bridge, but allows free parking during the day.  There is a private parking lot on the north side of the road that allows day-use parking for free and overnight parking for $5.  There is also a parking lot at the river bank and footbridge that charges $5 for day-use parking and $20 for overnight camping. 

We parked in the intermediate lot and set out across the bridge to McCarthy.  It is a mile walk into town, across two footbridges and through a nicely forested area.  Stopping at the McCarthy Lodge, we had a pitcher of beer and some pizza in the New Golden Saloon.  The Saloon and Lodge have a friendly and warm atmosphere with great food, staff and locals – highly recommended!  A nice moonlit walk took us back to the van where we settled in for the night.