9/18/2008 Wrangell-St. Elias

As the nation’s largest national park and preserve, totaling approximately 13 million acres, one might expect some high use areas. Quite the contrary. In fact the 2007 visitor statistics indicate only 61,000 visitors as compared to 458,000 in Denali.  The enormity of Wrangell-St.Elias National Park and Preserve becomes immediately apparent regardless of the aspect from which it is approached. It is comprised of a confluence of four significant mountain ranges that meet in the park. The Chugach Mountains border the southern edge and coast, the Wrangells extend from the northwest corner through the northern interior, the St. Elias Mountains extend form the Gulf of Alaska to the northwest through the park, and the eastern extent of the Alaska Range covers the northeast corner of the park. Collectively, these mountains house 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the United States as well as the most significant assemblage of glaciers and the world’s largest subpolar icefield. Wrangell-St Elias, in conjunction with Glacier Bay National Park, Kluane National Park in the Yukon, and Tatshenshini-Alsek Park in British Columbia constitute the largest World Heritage Site, as designated by the United Nations in 1979, at 24 million acres.  There may be some question as to how excited the locals are about this designation, as reflected by two very prominent “Get the US out of the UN” signs posted on the private lands which are interspersed in the park interior.


Wrangell Mountains



Wrangell Mountains

To explore this vast wilderness there are two vehicular access points, the McCarthy Road and the Nabesna Road- neither of which are in ideal driving shape, however they are passable so long as one does not fear potholes or stream crossings. Highlights along the McCarthy Road include the Kuskulana River Bridge which spans 525 across and 238 feet above the river.



Kuskulana River Bridge


Kuskulana River Bridge

The main park visitor center is located between Glennallen and Copper Center along Alaska 4. There are additional information locations at McCarthy and Kennicott and ranger stations at Chitina, Slana and Yakutat but the main office will be the only staffed option for visitors arriving after September 15. Camping and recreational opportunities are infinite so long as you are self sufficient. Designated campsites and hiking trails are few and far between yet the area is wide open for explorations. Visitors are cautioned to avoid private property, which seems to be very well posted along the access roads. Additionally, there are some specific areas closed to camping in the Donoho Basin due to bear encounters. We ventured onto the Crystalline Hills Trail which is a 2.5 loop through the boreal forest affording excellent views of the Chitina River Valley and the ever changing geology of the region.



Chitina River Valley


Crystalline Hills

Upon exiting the park we were heading northeast toward the town of Tok. The stretch of Alaska Route 1 which parallels the park boundary is one of the most scenic stretches of highway we have encountered. The sunny day and the parting views of the 16,237 foot Mount Sanford left us with only excellent impressions of this vast park.



Mt. Sanford
 
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