Tok to Haines
9/19/08
We left Tok knowing the day would take us back to the Yukon – but not before a brief stop at the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. The visitor center lies immediately adjacent to the Alaska Highway approximately 85 miles south of Tok and is open seasonally from mid May through mid September. The refuge is comprised of extensive wetland flats, “pot hole” ponds, and upland boreal forests. It is home to resident large mammal populations and provides extensive migratory bird and waterfowl habitat, highlighted by nesting trumpeter swans.
A simple border crossing along Route 1 and a change in time zone had us heading for Kluane National Park but we were quickly aware that we were back in the Yukon, based solely on road conditions. The stretch of road connecting the Yukon to Haines Junction is adorned with the St. Elias Mountains to the west, of which the most spectacular sight may be the Icefield Ranges. These are described as some of the “highest and youngest mountains in Canada,” including six peak over 5,000 meters and Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan at 5,959 meters (19,545 feet).
The Icefield Ranges
Also along the route to Haines Junction, we were graced with the sighting of the largest, living (it is hunting season) bull moose we have seen thus far along a road-side pond. A fellow traveler was very proficient with his moose call. Being rutting season, we did witness some interesting behaviors from the moose. We attempted a call of our own as well. Some moose hunters we met earlier in our excursion has explained that striking wood against wood was a viable moose call. We did not have as much success as the traditional call but did attract the attention of the moose. Bald eagles are also prolific along this highway with many lakes and fishing opportunities. The largest of these lakes is Kluane Lake (the largest lake in the Yukon), home to Destruction Bay, adjacent to yet another Sheep Mountain. This was a rugged stretch of terrain with Destruction Bay appearing similar to a rough day on the Gulf of Mexico and the steep slopes of Sheep Mountain abundant with Dall Sheep.
Kluane Lake – Destruction Bay
We passed through the small town of Haines Junction fairly quickly, stopping only at the Kluane National Park Headquarters to garner some campground information. It was posted at the Park Headquarters that our original intended campground, Kathleen Lake, was closed due to bear activity so we proceeded south on Haines Highway (Yukon Highway 3) to Dezadeash Lake. It is a beautiful campground with twenty campsites, almost all lakefront. The winds evidently can and do whip off the lake fairly strongly and regularly so the substantial central cooking shelter and large wood stove provided at this campground could prove quite useful for extended stays. We had a beautiful sunny day for travel but the wind and rains did move in as we reached the campground. Therefore, our fire was small and our evening outdoors fairly brief. However, the provision of free firewood at all Yukon Government Campgrounds remains our favorite campground amenity!
We left Tok knowing the day would take us back to the Yukon – but not before a brief stop at the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. The visitor center lies immediately adjacent to the Alaska Highway approximately 85 miles south of Tok and is open seasonally from mid May through mid September. The refuge is comprised of extensive wetland flats, “pot hole” ponds, and upland boreal forests. It is home to resident large mammal populations and provides extensive migratory bird and waterfowl habitat, highlighted by nesting trumpeter swans.
A simple border crossing along Route 1 and a change in time zone had us heading for Kluane National Park but we were quickly aware that we were back in the Yukon, based solely on road conditions. The stretch of road connecting the Yukon to Haines Junction is adorned with the St. Elias Mountains to the west, of which the most spectacular sight may be the Icefield Ranges. These are described as some of the “highest and youngest mountains in Canada,” including six peak over 5,000 meters and Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan at 5,959 meters (19,545 feet).
The Icefield Ranges
Also along the route to Haines Junction, we were graced with the sighting of the largest, living (it is hunting season) bull moose we have seen thus far along a road-side pond. A fellow traveler was very proficient with his moose call. Being rutting season, we did witness some interesting behaviors from the moose. We attempted a call of our own as well. Some moose hunters we met earlier in our excursion has explained that striking wood against wood was a viable moose call. We did not have as much success as the traditional call but did attract the attention of the moose. Bald eagles are also prolific along this highway with many lakes and fishing opportunities. The largest of these lakes is Kluane Lake (the largest lake in the Yukon), home to Destruction Bay, adjacent to yet another Sheep Mountain. This was a rugged stretch of terrain with Destruction Bay appearing similar to a rough day on the Gulf of Mexico and the steep slopes of Sheep Mountain abundant with Dall Sheep.
Kluane Lake – Destruction Bay
We passed through the small town of Haines Junction fairly quickly, stopping only at the Kluane National Park Headquarters to garner some campground information. It was posted at the Park Headquarters that our original intended campground, Kathleen Lake, was closed due to bear activity so we proceeded south on Haines Highway (Yukon Highway 3) to Dezadeash Lake. It is a beautiful campground with twenty campsites, almost all lakefront. The winds evidently can and do whip off the lake fairly strongly and regularly so the substantial central cooking shelter and large wood stove provided at this campground could prove quite useful for extended stays. We had a beautiful sunny day for travel but the wind and rains did move in as we reached the campground. Therefore, our fire was small and our evening outdoors fairly brief. However, the provision of free firewood at all Yukon Government Campgrounds remains our favorite campground amenity!
Comments