Port McNeill
9/29/08 -9/30/08
We chose Port McNeill as our next destination due to its immediate water access to Telegraph Cove and Johnstone Straight, which I had read were some of the most heralded waters for orca viewing. Being late in the season, I had some trepidation as to whether or not we should even try a whale watching cruise. But, as I soon found out, late in the season refers to the tourist season and not necessarily the whale season.
Upon arrival in Port McNeill, we checked ourselves into the Black Bear Resort, a new hotel also offering spa services (of which we did not partake) and registered for a morning whale watching trip, the last of the season with Mackay Whale Watching. We wandered on foot through the town of Port McNeill, which boasts numerous small shops and restaurants. However, given Rebekah’s affinity for ferries, we were obliged to take the BC Ferry from Port McNeill to the fishing village of Sointula, on Malcolm Island. This was a short ferry ride, populated mostly with students and commuters who reside in Sointula – a quaint town with only a few, but the essential amenities. Our ferry layover was short so we went to the Whale’s Rub Pub which is immediately adjacent to the ferry dock and, incidentally, the only open establishment. We met a few locals who make their own salmon jerky and were perfectly treated by the staff. Although the Whale’s Rub does not serve food, the bartender made every effort to obtain dinner or pizza for us, but, as previously mentioned, they seemed to be the only folks working that evening.
We were greeted by a sunny morning and anxiously made our way to the whale watching tour after a complete breakfast at the Black Bear. The Mackay Whale Watching tour is a family owned and operated business. The tour is conducted on the 55 ft Naiad Explorer, a vessel specifically designed for whale watching, and is personally run by the Mackay’s, who are extremely knowledgeable. We were fortunate to be two of only a dozen passengers on the tour so there was plenty of room and viewing space aboard the boat.
The trip started breezy and bit chilly but any discomfort was quickly erased by an early sighting of humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae), HBs as the locals call them. These are huge whales, averaging 48 feet in length and weighing between 25 and 45 tons. Although we had seen glimpses of these creatures on the ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy, their sheer enormity became apparent on this tour.
The Mackay’s are well connected on and to the water with both a keen sense of where to find whales as well a large network of friends on the water sharing sighting and location information. It wasn’t long into the morning that they located the resident A30 pod of Orcas (Orcinus orca). This was an exceptional treat, as I have never seen killer whales in the wild and have long desired to do so. We tracked the pod for the majority of the day witnessing various feeding and social behaviors and distinguishing different members of the pod.
Research vessels operated by the Canadian government were very much in evidence, apparently studying specifically the diet of the resident orcas which is as yet not well understood or documented.
During the day we were also privileged to view stellar sea lions, harbour seals, numerous sea birds and a second encounter with HBs, this time surfacing with mouth wide open - reminiscent of Monstro the whale in Pinocchio! An exceptional onboard lunch and the company of fellow travelers from Belgium, the UK, and Germany made for extremely enjoyable and educational day on the water. Interesting enough, Mr. Mackay pointed out that although our trip ended their “season,” it wouldn’t be long until “dorsal fins out numbered people” on those same waters…
We chose Port McNeill as our next destination due to its immediate water access to Telegraph Cove and Johnstone Straight, which I had read were some of the most heralded waters for orca viewing. Being late in the season, I had some trepidation as to whether or not we should even try a whale watching cruise. But, as I soon found out, late in the season refers to the tourist season and not necessarily the whale season.
Upon arrival in Port McNeill, we checked ourselves into the Black Bear Resort, a new hotel also offering spa services (of which we did not partake) and registered for a morning whale watching trip, the last of the season with Mackay Whale Watching. We wandered on foot through the town of Port McNeill, which boasts numerous small shops and restaurants. However, given Rebekah’s affinity for ferries, we were obliged to take the BC Ferry from Port McNeill to the fishing village of Sointula, on Malcolm Island. This was a short ferry ride, populated mostly with students and commuters who reside in Sointula – a quaint town with only a few, but the essential amenities. Our ferry layover was short so we went to the Whale’s Rub Pub which is immediately adjacent to the ferry dock and, incidentally, the only open establishment. We met a few locals who make their own salmon jerky and were perfectly treated by the staff. Although the Whale’s Rub does not serve food, the bartender made every effort to obtain dinner or pizza for us, but, as previously mentioned, they seemed to be the only folks working that evening.
We were greeted by a sunny morning and anxiously made our way to the whale watching tour after a complete breakfast at the Black Bear. The Mackay Whale Watching tour is a family owned and operated business. The tour is conducted on the 55 ft Naiad Explorer, a vessel specifically designed for whale watching, and is personally run by the Mackay’s, who are extremely knowledgeable. We were fortunate to be two of only a dozen passengers on the tour so there was plenty of room and viewing space aboard the boat.
The trip started breezy and bit chilly but any discomfort was quickly erased by an early sighting of humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae), HBs as the locals call them. These are huge whales, averaging 48 feet in length and weighing between 25 and 45 tons. Although we had seen glimpses of these creatures on the ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy, their sheer enormity became apparent on this tour.
The Mackay’s are well connected on and to the water with both a keen sense of where to find whales as well a large network of friends on the water sharing sighting and location information. It wasn’t long into the morning that they located the resident A30 pod of Orcas (Orcinus orca). This was an exceptional treat, as I have never seen killer whales in the wild and have long desired to do so. We tracked the pod for the majority of the day witnessing various feeding and social behaviors and distinguishing different members of the pod.
Research vessels operated by the Canadian government were very much in evidence, apparently studying specifically the diet of the resident orcas which is as yet not well understood or documented.
During the day we were also privileged to view stellar sea lions, harbour seals, numerous sea birds and a second encounter with HBs, this time surfacing with mouth wide open - reminiscent of Monstro the whale in Pinocchio! An exceptional onboard lunch and the company of fellow travelers from Belgium, the UK, and Germany made for extremely enjoyable and educational day on the water. Interesting enough, Mr. Mackay pointed out that although our trip ended their “season,” it wouldn’t be long until “dorsal fins out numbered people” on those same waters…
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