3/1/09

After getting some Café de Olla and fresh peaches in Bernal’s town square, we headed north on Mex 110 (Mex 4) toward Higuerillas and Penal de Amoles.  Our primary destination was Penal de Amoles since we knew the town to be the base of exploration for the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve.  The road soon climbed into the Sierras and we were rewarded with views of Pena de Bernal and mountain ranges on all sides.  After Higuerillas, the road met up with Mex 120 and we continued north to Pinal de Amoles.  The well-maintained roads twisted and turned as we climbed up into the Sierra Gorda range, traveling through vast high desert land.  After long stretches of empty road, we were surprised to run across livestock and small villages carved into the hillsides.

La Pena de Bernal

Approaching Sierra Gorda on Mex 120

Livestock in the Biosphere

Mex 120

The northern, treed side of the Sierra Gorda

We stopped into the tourist information building, located on the right side of Mex 120 as you enter Pinal de Amoles from the south.  A local man was very informative with directions – there are maps and brochures available as well as maps, photos and descriptions hung on the walls of the tourist office.  We chose two sites to see, mainly based on their (relative) proximity to the main (paved) road.   Heading north out of town, we reached the turn on the right for El Chujave after 23 kilometers.  This is a bumpy, pot-holed, gullied dirt one-lane road that is not for the faint of heart, especially when you need to pass oncoming vehicles.  Do not drive this road – or any other roads in this area – if there has been a recent rain as I am certain it would be washed out and very dangerous.  However on the worst part this road was actually “paved” in a criss-cross pattern that must eliminate some of the mudslide issues during the rainy season. 

The turns for El Chuveje (Cascada) are well marked and easy to find.  There is a small concession stand and a parking lot at the entrance that charges 20 pesos per person.  You can also camp near the falls for an additional fee.  The trail to the waterfall is a 15 minute walk on semi-level ground.  Near the falls there is a bit of a climb, with rock stairs and uneven ground.  The surroundings are lush, filled with wildflowers, ferns, evergreen and deciduous trees.  Lizards, birds and butterflies abound.  El Chuveje is 35 meters high and spills into semi-deep pools that flow down toward the camping and parking area. 

Road to El Chuveje

Bridge crossing on trail

El Chuveje

El Chuveje

Our second selection for sightseeing in the area was somewhat unsuccessful.  Camping and cabanas are advertised at the Rio Escanela so we drove the 5 kilometers down a similar (but worse) conditioned road as the one toward El Chuveje.  Near the bottom there was a wire hanging diagonally across the road which precluded a vehicle as tall as the van from passing.  Puente del Dios, hiking, camping and the cabanas were located beyond this point but dusk was approaching.  Not wanting to leave our van unattended on a precarious road, we opted to not stay the night and headed to Jalpan for the evening.

Jalpan is home to a beautiful mission in the center of town.  We stayed in the Hotel Mision Jalpan on the square which provides clean reasonably priced rooms surrounding a nice courtyard and swimming pool with excellent access to the central square and other amenities in town.  However, due to this central location, with the rooms’ windows facing the street, it is very loud and raucous.  We strolled the square, listened to the Sunday night live music, got all the new Oscar winners on DVD and ate delicious pastor tacos that even topped the ones we had in San Miguel!

The Mission at Jalpan

The town square in Jalpan

Queretaro has surprised us with the best scenery, food and atmosphere we’ve experienced in Mexico so far.  Their motto, “Queretaro es major!” certainly rings true.  We were also thrilled to get so much information about the surrounding natural areas and attractions in both printed form and local knowledge.  There are also several websites available, which we didn’t know about prior to our arrival, but seem like they would be extremely helpful when planning a visit to this spectacular state. 

http://www.queretaro.travel/eng_index.html  http://www.pinaldeamoles.gob.mx/principal.php

http://www.sierragorda.net/index~.htm

http://asomarte.com/

http://www.sierraventuramex.com/