4/24/09 - 4/27/09

San Cristobal de las Casas lies in the center of the state of Chiapas, in a mountainous region some 6890 feet above sea level.  This location has formerly made San Cristobal difficult to reach and somewhat isolated.  However since the building of the new toll road, San Cristobal is a mere 45 minute drive from the capital of Tuxtla Guttierez, a bustling sprawling city in the Chiapas valley. 

The city of San Cristobal is a fantastic gem of a town, with colorful buildings and streets comprising a well-organized central grid.  Artisans fill the shops and markets with beautiful textiles, innovative jewelry and interesting creations.  Amber is the most prevalent jewelry item and the streets are lined with shops offering small to large pieces of amber in various settings.  Chiapas is also known for its delicious strong coffee which is served throughout town and makes a great parting souvenir. 

Houses on the hill in San Cristobal de las Casas

One of the many interesting doorways in San Cristobal

San Cristobal was one of the four cities seized by the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN) in the widely publicized uprising against the Mexican government in 1994.  This battle was sparked by the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which removed ejido (communal) land guarantees for the indigenous farmers.  The Mexican army forcibly regained control of San Cristobal and the other cities, pushing the Zapatistas into the jungle where they proceeded to create autonomous communities and governments of their own.  Over the years the EZLN and the Mexican government have signed peace accords and made concessions and progress within the state of Chiapas.  We noticed this in the form of many large road construction projects as soon as we crossed the border from Oaxaca, as well as the neat and organized infrastructure of the small towns along the way.

Despite some progress, the conflict between the EZLN and the Mexican government has not been resolved.  Continued most recently in the form of the Other Campaign, the Zapatistas continue to lobby for autonomy, land rights, honest government spending, increased infrastructure, education and rights for the indigenous Mayan people and the end of capitalism in both Mexico and the world.  These issues are complex, have a long history and are much more intricate than my understanding or ability to summarize here.  It should be noted that although the EZLN is armed, many of their efforts are community-based in terms of building schools, hospitals and helping the indigenous poor in Chiapas.  The presence of the Zapatistas, their struggle and the NGOs that support them is felt here in San Cristobal, along with an undercurrent of supporters for the Mexican government.  However for the casual tourist to San Cristobal, this conflict is mostly seen only in the presence of pamphlets, t-shirts, dolls and other merchandise in the shops and markets.

Zapatista dolls

The communal political atmosphere is complemented by a thriving cultural scene that provides space for musicians and artists to perform in the ubiquitous cafés, restaurants and coffee shops in town.  Hip and fashionable with an international vibe, San Cristobal attracts tourists, activists, artists and students from around the globe.  Both Real de Guadalupe and the Andador Eclesiastico are pedestrian only streets near the center of town and are excellent for shopping, dining, live music and people-watching.  For live music, we liked Iskra (which is also a craft beer brewery) at #53 Calle Real de Guadalupe.  Two great places for affordable wine by the glass and snacks are El Rincon del Vino at #2 Andador Eclesiastico and Café Ambrosia at the corner of Real de Guadalupe and Diego Dugelay.  We also enjoyed the pizza and fresh salads at VIA VAI at #4A Andador Eclesiastico.  For more authentic Mexican cuisine try the menu del dia at  El Mirador II on Diego de Mazariegos. 

Real de Guadalupe

Andador Eclesiastico

Real de Guadalupe

There are several beautiful churches in San Cristobal.  The most beloved is Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman which is located at the northern end of the Andador Eclesiastico. The local artisans market surrounds the grounds of the church and nearby square and streets where you can find reasonably priced clothing, beaded jewelry, leather goods, hammocks, dolls, purses, blankets and many more handmade items from both Chiapas and Guatemala. The Templo de San Nicholas is located at the intersection of Real de Guadalupe and the Andador Eclesiastico across from the central plazas and Palacio Municipal.

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman with Artisan Market

Templo de San Nicholas

While there are many hotel, hostel and guest house choices in San Cristobal, we opted to stay at the hotel run by the Na Bolom Cultural Association.  Na Bolom is a Mexican based non-profit NGO founded by a Danish and Swiss couple in 1951.  Na Bolom offers 16 guest rooms, a restaurant, museum, gardens, cultural center and community outreach program located in the northeast section of town, a short walk from the center and markets.  The guest rooms are an extension of the museum, complete with antique furniture, photos and décor.  All the rooms have fireplaces and are stocked daily with firewood which is necessary to keep the morning and nighttime chill at bay.  The price of the room includes breakfast made to order in the restaurant, a tour of the museum and complementary wi-fi throughout the property.

San Andres Room at Na Bolom

San Andres Room at Na Bolom

Courtyard at Na Bolom

Courtyard at Na Bolom

Restaurant at Na Bolom

Our stay in San Cristobal was delightful, relaxing, invigorating and educational.  San Cristobal represents a very different side of Mexico that can be felt as soon as you cross the border into Chiapas.  The motto of Chiapas is Hechos, No Palabras which roughly translates to Deeds, Not Words which seems amazingly true here.  We found the Chiapanos to be a strong, hard-working, well-organized and industrious people with an amazing sense of character and independence.  San Cristobal has much to offer to the casual tourist, politico, community organizer, revolutionary, shopper and/or the artistic spirit.  In the spirit of the Chiapan motto, just come and visit for yourself!