San Juan Chamula
4/26/2009
Only ten kilometers outside of San Cristobal one finds the autonomous municipality of San Juan Chamula. The residents here are indigenous Mayan Tzotzil people, direct descendants of the classic Maya Civilization. San Juan Chamula has been a “rebellious” municipality since its inception, resisting the early invasion attempts of Spanish colonists. More recently, members of the Tzotzil people comprise a significant portion of the membership of the Zapatista Army of National Liberation as well as lesser-known pacifist organizations with similar philosophies, such as Las Abejas.
The community has traditionally been a self-sustaining, subsistence, agricultural community. However, San Juan Chamula has generated a tourism industry resulting from its notoriety for unique religious customs. The Tzotzil people in Chamula practice an interesting combination of Catholic and Mayan customs, accompanied with some rather unique and “modern” additions. The Church of San Juan Bautista is the centerpiece of the municipality. Surrounded by the town market, the church itself is an imposing white washed structure adorned with an immense wooden door that is only opened in its entirety on June 24 (the festival day of the patron saint) of each year. The remainder of the year only a small, attended doorway provides access to the curious practices inside.
Church of San Juan Bautista
The church is without pews, seats, or alters. The atmosphere is somewhat mystifying. The floor is covered in pine needles, the air is filled with the smoke of incense, and small groups of faithful are burning rows of candles and praying and chanting in the Tzotzil language on the floor. Statues of saints adorned with mirrors and colorful ribbons are distributed around the church, with Saint John holding the most esteemed position as well as the most mirrors. One explanation as to the purpose of the mirrors is to aid the soul of a worshipper in returning to its owner’s body since the spirit is believed to exit the body during prayer.
The form of the individual rituals inside the church varies based on the saint whose assistance is most sought, as well as the ailment, affliction, or other request being submitted. The direction of Curanderos (medicine men) provides the specifics to worshippers. These range from colors of candles, types of flowers and requisite sacrifices. Ceremonies may include eggs, bones or live chickens.
The live animals are not used as purely sacrificial blood offerings. They are used to transfer a sickness from the afflicted person into the fowl through a sometimes ornate ceremony with the live animal. The basic rules for poultry use in such ceremonies seem to be as follows: hens are used for women, cocks for men; white birds for physical ailments, black birds for mental afflictions. After the worshippers pray with the live animals in the middle, the animal is passed over the body of the infirmed and then gets its neck broken. It seems that white birds are usually then eaten by the sacrificing family, while the black birds are taken home and buried untouched.
Mayan Crosses
Decorated Mayan Crosses can be found at the homes of all the Tzotzil
The traditional Catholic influence on this church is most notably reflected in the monthly baptism services (one every twenty days in accordance with the Mayan calendar), conducted by a visiting priest. The concept of a resident, single priest or leader within this church is rejected. Some of the more modern elements of the practices of the people of Chamula include a strong affinity for both Coca-Cola and fireworks. Coca-Cola is openly consumed in the church (as is pox - an alcoholic sugarcane concoction) for its carbonation. It is believed that with every belch comes the expulsion of bad and evil. Homemade fireworks are popular and consist of basic tubes of gunpowder and a launch base. Although not the showiest of explosives they are loud and are in constant evidence. They are said to be in celebration of the patron saints. Turns out everyday of the year has its own patron saint!
The intricacies of the Tzotzil people and their religious and political practices are extremely difficult to grasp, especially from such a cursory visit. There are variations from town to town and even from family to family. Just four kilometers from the center of San Juan Chamula sits the town of Zinacantan, where the killing of chickens is specifically forbidden in church. The most obvious consistencies that we observed among the Tzotzil people center around the self-sufficient agricultural lifestyle.
Local Farms in San Juan Chamula
Rolling farmland and greenhouses around Zinacantan
Farming is abundant and sheep are revered. They are raised for their wool only and their passing is mourned. The traditional attire is black wool skirts worn by the women and girls accompanied by shiny blouses and ornate hair ribbons in long braids. Tzotzil men also wear black wool ponchos, while white wool ponchos seem to be reserved for the local police force/civil servants. All materials, dyes and foods are produced locally; the textiles and details of the hand woven fabrics are stunning.
Traditional Tzotzil Attire
The curiosity and mystery surrounding the autonomous Tzotzil communities add to the charm of Chiapas. And while it is necessary to respect local customs, specifically with respect to photography, these communities are very accessible to outsiders. The people have fully equipped themselves and their salesmanship skills to accommodate, and sometimes even overwhelm, the tourist.
One of many textile merchants in San Juan Chamula
Only ten kilometers outside of San Cristobal one finds the autonomous municipality of San Juan Chamula. The residents here are indigenous Mayan Tzotzil people, direct descendants of the classic Maya Civilization. San Juan Chamula has been a “rebellious” municipality since its inception, resisting the early invasion attempts of Spanish colonists. More recently, members of the Tzotzil people comprise a significant portion of the membership of the Zapatista Army of National Liberation as well as lesser-known pacifist organizations with similar philosophies, such as Las Abejas.
The community has traditionally been a self-sustaining, subsistence, agricultural community. However, San Juan Chamula has generated a tourism industry resulting from its notoriety for unique religious customs. The Tzotzil people in Chamula practice an interesting combination of Catholic and Mayan customs, accompanied with some rather unique and “modern” additions. The Church of San Juan Bautista is the centerpiece of the municipality. Surrounded by the town market, the church itself is an imposing white washed structure adorned with an immense wooden door that is only opened in its entirety on June 24 (the festival day of the patron saint) of each year. The remainder of the year only a small, attended doorway provides access to the curious practices inside.
Church of San Juan Bautista
The church is without pews, seats, or alters. The atmosphere is somewhat mystifying. The floor is covered in pine needles, the air is filled with the smoke of incense, and small groups of faithful are burning rows of candles and praying and chanting in the Tzotzil language on the floor. Statues of saints adorned with mirrors and colorful ribbons are distributed around the church, with Saint John holding the most esteemed position as well as the most mirrors. One explanation as to the purpose of the mirrors is to aid the soul of a worshipper in returning to its owner’s body since the spirit is believed to exit the body during prayer.
The form of the individual rituals inside the church varies based on the saint whose assistance is most sought, as well as the ailment, affliction, or other request being submitted. The direction of Curanderos (medicine men) provides the specifics to worshippers. These range from colors of candles, types of flowers and requisite sacrifices. Ceremonies may include eggs, bones or live chickens.
The live animals are not used as purely sacrificial blood offerings. They are used to transfer a sickness from the afflicted person into the fowl through a sometimes ornate ceremony with the live animal. The basic rules for poultry use in such ceremonies seem to be as follows: hens are used for women, cocks for men; white birds for physical ailments, black birds for mental afflictions. After the worshippers pray with the live animals in the middle, the animal is passed over the body of the infirmed and then gets its neck broken. It seems that white birds are usually then eaten by the sacrificing family, while the black birds are taken home and buried untouched.
Mayan Crosses
Decorated Mayan Crosses can be found at the homes of all the Tzotzil
The traditional Catholic influence on this church is most notably reflected in the monthly baptism services (one every twenty days in accordance with the Mayan calendar), conducted by a visiting priest. The concept of a resident, single priest or leader within this church is rejected. Some of the more modern elements of the practices of the people of Chamula include a strong affinity for both Coca-Cola and fireworks. Coca-Cola is openly consumed in the church (as is pox - an alcoholic sugarcane concoction) for its carbonation. It is believed that with every belch comes the expulsion of bad and evil. Homemade fireworks are popular and consist of basic tubes of gunpowder and a launch base. Although not the showiest of explosives they are loud and are in constant evidence. They are said to be in celebration of the patron saints. Turns out everyday of the year has its own patron saint!
The intricacies of the Tzotzil people and their religious and political practices are extremely difficult to grasp, especially from such a cursory visit. There are variations from town to town and even from family to family. Just four kilometers from the center of San Juan Chamula sits the town of Zinacantan, where the killing of chickens is specifically forbidden in church. The most obvious consistencies that we observed among the Tzotzil people center around the self-sufficient agricultural lifestyle.
Local Farms in San Juan Chamula
Rolling farmland and greenhouses around Zinacantan
Farming is abundant and sheep are revered. They are raised for their wool only and their passing is mourned. The traditional attire is black wool skirts worn by the women and girls accompanied by shiny blouses and ornate hair ribbons in long braids. Tzotzil men also wear black wool ponchos, while white wool ponchos seem to be reserved for the local police force/civil servants. All materials, dyes and foods are produced locally; the textiles and details of the hand woven fabrics are stunning.
Traditional Tzotzil Attire
The curiosity and mystery surrounding the autonomous Tzotzil communities add to the charm of Chiapas. And while it is necessary to respect local customs, specifically with respect to photography, these communities are very accessible to outsiders. The people have fully equipped themselves and their salesmanship skills to accommodate, and sometimes even overwhelm, the tourist.
One of many textile merchants in San Juan Chamula
Comments