Ruta Puuc – Part 2 Uxmal, Labna
5/6/2009 -5/7/2009
Remaining at the Sacbe Bungalows, we took comfort in the shade of the arbored property while adding new and interesting species to our bird and tree lists – including a sapling specimen of the Ceiba, the sacred tree of life of the Mayans.
Sacbe Bungalows
Labeled Trees on the grounds of the Sacbe Bungalows
Although slightly remote, the town of Santa Elena proved to be a perfect spot for anchoring during a Ruta Puuc tour. We enjoyed excellent Yucateca cuisine at the nearby Chac Mool Hotel and Restaurant. The regional specialties of pollo pebil, (a sauce made from the unique achiote plant) and panuchos, (an antojito in which beans are cooked inside the tortillas with vegetables piled on top) were delicious.
There are numerous tiendas in Santa Elena that are the most economical stops for water and refreshments along the Ruta Puuc. Also within walking distance of the Sacbe Bungalows is the Pickled Onion, a terrific establishment complete with a restaurant, swimming pool, and internet service. It is owned and operated by Valerie Pickles a British transplant via Canada. Although more expensive than the “local” establishments, the swimming pool is ideal for an afternoon dip and free for anyone dining. Clean bathrooms and changing rooms are available. Ms. Pickles also offers “picnic lunches” which are boxed for transport along the Ruta Puuc. Between the ruin sites themselves, there are no stores or restaurants.
As a public service announcement, a gas station is available in the nearby town of Ticul. However, if you are ever looking for gas here, best of luck in getting directions from the locals. After four or five inquisitions, we finally found our way to the Pemex, which is located on Calle 23 at Calle 40. There is also supposedly a Pemex in the town of Muna just north of Uxmal.
After picking up our lunch order first thing in the morning, we finally made our way to Uxmal, an extremely well manicured, expansive site. Uxmal is the Mayan word for thrice built, reflecting the multiple incarnations of the civilization and construction here. Upon entry, the Pyramid of the Magician is an overwhelming spectacle – distinguishing itself from the other Mayan pyramids with its elliptical shaped base. The existing Pyramid of the Magician is actually the fifth version of the structure constructed by the Mayans, with the four previous iterations lying below/within it – explaining its impressive 39 meter height.
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
The wide open and well maintained grounds at Uxmal make it easy to imagine a bustling community on the site. Puuc stylings of simple lower levels crowned with details above are especially evident in Governor’s Palace and Quadrangle of the Nuns at Uxmal.
Cuadrangulo de las Monjas (The Quadrangle of the Nuns), Uxmal
Serpent on the Edifice of the Quadrangle of the Nuns, Uxmal
Ball Court with Governor’s Palace in the Background, Uxmal
Detail of the Governor’s Palace, Uxmal
Ruins at Uxmal
While the Pyramid of the Magician is closed for climbing, the Grand Pyramid provides 32 meters of fitness opportunity as well as an expansive view of Uxmal and the entire Puuc region.
Grand Pyramid, Uxmal
El Palomar (House of the Doves) as seen from the Grand Pyramid, Uxmal
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
Uxmal houses modern visitor services including: clean restrooms, an ATM, fairly pricey gift shops (ambulant vendors are not permitted inside Uxmal) and a restaurant. What it does not provide much of is shade, so we made our way to Labna, hoping for a shady spot to enjoy our picnic lunch.
While not terribly shady, the entrance to Labna does have a small tienda with a table and chairs.
Refueling at the Labna Entrance
It should be noted we were two of only four guests during our excursion to Labna. In stark contrast to Uxmal, Labna is a site that has been excavated but with very little reconstruction, giving it a more authentic feel.
Although only four structures are in evidence, it is believed that during the 9th century, approximately 2,000 Mayans inhabited this site. The most impressive of the remaining architecture at Labna is the Mirador, which is now inhabited by vultures, and yet another arch that was historically part of a larger building connecting two plazas.
Sacbe with El Palacio in the Distance, Labna
El Mirador, Labna
El Mirador, Labna
El Arco, Labna
While not as accessible as the Chichen Itza site, we found the Ruta Puuc trip to be extremely worthwhile. The small size of the ruins (excepting for Uxmal) along this route allows visits to multiple sites on any given day and, although numerous archeological zones may seem redundant or repetitive, we found each location unique – which is a good thing as there are more ruins to come! Furthermore, when one tires of rock piles, the bird life in this part of the Yucatan is equally enjoyable.
Remaining at the Sacbe Bungalows, we took comfort in the shade of the arbored property while adding new and interesting species to our bird and tree lists – including a sapling specimen of the Ceiba, the sacred tree of life of the Mayans.
Sacbe Bungalows
Labeled Trees on the grounds of the Sacbe Bungalows
Although slightly remote, the town of Santa Elena proved to be a perfect spot for anchoring during a Ruta Puuc tour. We enjoyed excellent Yucateca cuisine at the nearby Chac Mool Hotel and Restaurant. The regional specialties of pollo pebil, (a sauce made from the unique achiote plant) and panuchos, (an antojito in which beans are cooked inside the tortillas with vegetables piled on top) were delicious.
There are numerous tiendas in Santa Elena that are the most economical stops for water and refreshments along the Ruta Puuc. Also within walking distance of the Sacbe Bungalows is the Pickled Onion, a terrific establishment complete with a restaurant, swimming pool, and internet service. It is owned and operated by Valerie Pickles a British transplant via Canada. Although more expensive than the “local” establishments, the swimming pool is ideal for an afternoon dip and free for anyone dining. Clean bathrooms and changing rooms are available. Ms. Pickles also offers “picnic lunches” which are boxed for transport along the Ruta Puuc. Between the ruin sites themselves, there are no stores or restaurants.
As a public service announcement, a gas station is available in the nearby town of Ticul. However, if you are ever looking for gas here, best of luck in getting directions from the locals. After four or five inquisitions, we finally found our way to the Pemex, which is located on Calle 23 at Calle 40. There is also supposedly a Pemex in the town of Muna just north of Uxmal.
After picking up our lunch order first thing in the morning, we finally made our way to Uxmal, an extremely well manicured, expansive site. Uxmal is the Mayan word for thrice built, reflecting the multiple incarnations of the civilization and construction here. Upon entry, the Pyramid of the Magician is an overwhelming spectacle – distinguishing itself from the other Mayan pyramids with its elliptical shaped base. The existing Pyramid of the Magician is actually the fifth version of the structure constructed by the Mayans, with the four previous iterations lying below/within it – explaining its impressive 39 meter height.
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
The wide open and well maintained grounds at Uxmal make it easy to imagine a bustling community on the site. Puuc stylings of simple lower levels crowned with details above are especially evident in Governor’s Palace and Quadrangle of the Nuns at Uxmal.
Cuadrangulo de las Monjas (The Quadrangle of the Nuns), Uxmal
Serpent on the Edifice of the Quadrangle of the Nuns, Uxmal
Ball Court with Governor’s Palace in the Background, Uxmal
Detail of the Governor’s Palace, Uxmal
Ruins at Uxmal
While the Pyramid of the Magician is closed for climbing, the Grand Pyramid provides 32 meters of fitness opportunity as well as an expansive view of Uxmal and the entire Puuc region.
Grand Pyramid, Uxmal
El Palomar (House of the Doves) as seen from the Grand Pyramid, Uxmal
Casa del Adivino (Pyramid of the Magician), Uxmal
Uxmal houses modern visitor services including: clean restrooms, an ATM, fairly pricey gift shops (ambulant vendors are not permitted inside Uxmal) and a restaurant. What it does not provide much of is shade, so we made our way to Labna, hoping for a shady spot to enjoy our picnic lunch.
While not terribly shady, the entrance to Labna does have a small tienda with a table and chairs.
Refueling at the Labna Entrance
It should be noted we were two of only four guests during our excursion to Labna. In stark contrast to Uxmal, Labna is a site that has been excavated but with very little reconstruction, giving it a more authentic feel.
Although only four structures are in evidence, it is believed that during the 9th century, approximately 2,000 Mayans inhabited this site. The most impressive of the remaining architecture at Labna is the Mirador, which is now inhabited by vultures, and yet another arch that was historically part of a larger building connecting two plazas.
Sacbe with El Palacio in the Distance, Labna
El Mirador, Labna
El Mirador, Labna
El Arco, Labna
While not as accessible as the Chichen Itza site, we found the Ruta Puuc trip to be extremely worthwhile. The small size of the ruins (excepting for Uxmal) along this route allows visits to multiple sites on any given day and, although numerous archeological zones may seem redundant or repetitive, we found each location unique – which is a good thing as there are more ruins to come! Furthermore, when one tires of rock piles, the bird life in this part of the Yucatan is equally enjoyable.
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