Chichen Itza

5/8/2009
It is fairly easy to negotiate the back roads from the Ruta Puuc through the towns of Mani, Teabo, Mayapan and Sotuta to arrive on the free road (180 Libre) just west of Chichen Itza. The only spot of minor confusion is in Mani, but following signs toward Merida and 18 will help with navigation here. This drive is scenic with small towns and few topes. It was on this road that we saw the most atypical example of Mexican “architecture” to date. Only the knot of electrical wires in the foreground places this home in Mexico.


An Atypical Mexican Home

Accommodations around Chichen Itza range from the very modest to the very exclusive. There are three resort style accommodations: The Hotel Hacienda Chichen, The Hotel Villas Arqueologicas, and The Hotel Mayaland.  Enticed by the prospect of walking to the ruins, we considered the Hacienda Chichen, but we also considered the price and decided otherwise. Instead we found ourselves at the Hotel Dolores Alba, just a few kilometers west of Chichen Itza. The Dolores Alba is less than a third of the price, has free wireless (or coin operated!) internet, includes a continental breakfast and best of all has, not one, but two swimming pools – one of them being a natural limestone bottom pool – very cool! They also offer free shuttle service to and from the ruins.


Hotel Dolores Alba


Limestone Bottom Pool, Hotel Dolores Alba

Having been voted one of the new seven wonders of world in 2007 (in a fairly unscientific poll), Chichen Itza is clearly the most famous of the Mayan Ruins in the Yucatan. It is big, it is popular, and it is full of vendors. It is also very impressive.


El Castillo (Pyramid of Kukulcan), Chichen Itza

There are countless facts and stories surrounding this location and the various infusions of architectural styles and civilizations – mainly the combining of the Maya and Toltuc cultures. However, some of the most interesting to me, concern the pure science of the architecture as well as the more fantastic tales of the ferocity of the people.

El Castillo, the centerpiece and most recognizable fixture,  is crafted and orientated such that during both the vernal and autumnal equinox, the sun projects triangular patches of light and shadow into a diamond-back rattlesnake pattern along the staircase, terminating at the serpent head at the base of the pyramid. This phenomenon is visible in the days surrounding each equinox as well, or one can attend the evening light show, which recreates the effect nightly.


El Castillo (Pyramid of Kukulcan), Chichen Itza

Additionally the pyramid itself is constructed as a Mayan Calendar. Each side has nine levels – each separated into two by the staircases, resulting in eighteen separate terraces corresponding to the 18 months of the Mayan Vague Year. The total steps on the pyramid total 365 and each façade has 52 flat panels, of course corresponding to the Calendar Round.


El Castillo (Pyramid of Kukulcan), Chichen Itza


El Castillo (Pyramid of Kukulcan), Chichen Itza

The Gran Juego de Pelota (the grand ball court) is the largest ball court in the Yucatan and is one of eight within Chichen Itza, thus attesting to the importance of sport in this society. The acoustics in the Court are quite interesting, with multiple echoes, and conversations carrying the full 135 meter length. Historians do not apparently agree on the exact nature of the game played here. Different accounts have it possibly varying from a soccer type game to a to a game with bats. Word has it that after some events the captain, and occasionally the whole losing team, was sacrificed. Perhaps their skulls were placed on display along with those of slain enemies and other sacrificial victims at the nearby Platforma de los Craneos.


Gran Juego de Pelota (The Great Ball Court), Chichen Itza


Templo del Barbado, Chichen Itza
(Temple of the Bearded Man)


Platforma de las Aguilas y los Jaguares, Chichen Itza
(Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars)


Platforma de los Craneos, Chichen Itza
(Platform of the Skulls)

The Sacred Cenote at Chichen Itza was  the site of many rituals and sacrifices as evidenced by the discovery of jewels artifacts and human bones from throughout Mexico and Central America during its dredging the early 1900’s.


Cenote Sagrado (The Sacred Cenote), Chichen Itza

The Caracol (the snail), which is so named for circular staircase inside, was the astronomical observatory for Chichen Itza. The windows in the dome are aligned with specific stars on specific dates and the four doors are positioned precisely in each of the four cardinal directions.


El Caracol (The Snail/ The Observatory), Chichen Itza

Excavation, restoration, and reconstruction continue at Chichen Itza. One can only guess what interesting tales are yet to be unearthed. While other archeological zones in the Yucatan may be more hands on (no climbing at Chichen Itza), economical, and less “touristy;” the grandeur of this site and the wealth of information and/or stories surrounding it are absolutely worth the visit.  


Active Excavation at Chichen Itza


Grupo de las Mil Columnas, Chichen Itza
(Group of the Thousand Columns)


XOXO Bas-Relief, possibly representing good and evil


Resting in the Ruins


Ruins at Chichen Itza


Ruins at Chichen Itza


La Iglesia in El Edificio de las Monjas (Nunnery), Chichen Itza


 
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