Valladolid, Ek Balam
5/8/2009 – 5/10/2009
Valladolid is a tranquil city, located centrally between Merida and Cancun. It serves as a terrific base for excursions to the sights of the central Yucatan, including Chichen Itza, Ek Balam, numerous cenotes, and biospheres along the north coast of the peninsula. It was one of the earliest conquest attempts by the Spanish, as well as one of the most difficult. Because Valladolid was once the ceremonial center, Zaci, for the Mayan people, attempts at conquest were fiercely resisted. Valladolid had a continued history of conflict, as the home of the inception of the Caste War (an uprising of the native Mayas against the Yucatecos) in 1847 as well as reported first signs of the Mexican Revolution in 1910.
However, today the city is a relaxed combination of colonial and Mayan flavors. We found it to be rather unaffected by tourism and were glad to be back in “Mexico.” Valladolid is considered one of the culinary centers of the Yucatan state, and the restaurant at the Hotel El Mason de Marques has been deemed regionally as one of the best. Conveniently, we were staying at the aforementioned hotel and concur with the published assessments of the food. The hotel itself is a colonial building with all the modern conveniences and a traditional courtyard around which the restaurant is assembled.
Immediately adjacent to the hotel is a marketplace type enclosure that houses many counter service type restaurants, which specialize in regional cuisine, at very economical prices. We also dined at the Restaurant Zaci, which is located on Calle 36 at Calle 37 in the downtown area immediately adjacent to the stalactite adorned Cenote Zaci. Although we can’t really recommend swimming at the cenote, we can recommend an afternoon michelada and complementary botanas in the restaurant.
Cenote Zaci, Valladolid
Valladolid is an excellent shopping destination; especially if hand embroidered Mayan garments are on your list. These are readily available in the shops surrounding the central plaza. A short drive west of town, toward Chichen Itza, will land you at the Crafts from the Jail shop where high quality hammocks are available in profusion. Yucatecan hammocks are supposed to be the finest in Mexico and, I have read in more than one place, “some of the best hammocks are produced in prisons.” True on not - I can’t say for certain. But, a stop at the roadside jail stand and a test lie-down of a tightly woven cotton model made me a believer.
So as to avoid any withdrawal symptoms from our ruin tour, we made a trip Ek Balam, a relatively recent site, as far as discovery and display goes. We were struck by the fortified nature of this site. It is more rugged in appearance with external walls, not common in early Mayan cities. Additionally Structure 10, which is encountered immediately to the right after passing over the perimeter wall, has a rounded base with a caracol shaped external riser. One imagines this is what the stairways inside the structures at Chichen Itza might resemble. This is first example we have actually seen.
Structure 10, Ek Balam
The centerpiece of Ek Balam is the absolutely enormous acropolis structure, reportedly one of the largest structures in Mesoamerica. It is 32 climbable meters high and the climb is a bit precarious but the view from the top is spectacular. Be careful in the wind though.
View from atop the Acropolis at Ek Balam
Ruins at Ek Balam with Giant Acropolis in the Distance
The acropolis structure houses much bas-relief and sculpture, most notably a giant jaguar mouth fully lined with teeth. It is apparent (from the material, color, and texture) that this is a recreation, and a new one at that. Perhaps more authentic elements of the acropolis are the chultunes, or wells, as they are called. However, well is a bit of a misnomer. These were more rain barrels than wells, functioning to capture as much water as possible during the rainy season. There are no rivers or surficial fresh water flows on the Yucatan. The Mayans relied solely on rainwater capture and, in some cases, cenotes for water supplies. Any one who has experienced the dry, hot, thirst this climate creates can imagine the difficulties and urgencies that might present.
Mouth of the Namesake Jaguar, Ek Balam
Chultune (Well), Ek Balam
Valladolid is a tranquil city, located centrally between Merida and Cancun. It serves as a terrific base for excursions to the sights of the central Yucatan, including Chichen Itza, Ek Balam, numerous cenotes, and biospheres along the north coast of the peninsula. It was one of the earliest conquest attempts by the Spanish, as well as one of the most difficult. Because Valladolid was once the ceremonial center, Zaci, for the Mayan people, attempts at conquest were fiercely resisted. Valladolid had a continued history of conflict, as the home of the inception of the Caste War (an uprising of the native Mayas against the Yucatecos) in 1847 as well as reported first signs of the Mexican Revolution in 1910.
However, today the city is a relaxed combination of colonial and Mayan flavors. We found it to be rather unaffected by tourism and were glad to be back in “Mexico.” Valladolid is considered one of the culinary centers of the Yucatan state, and the restaurant at the Hotel El Mason de Marques has been deemed regionally as one of the best. Conveniently, we were staying at the aforementioned hotel and concur with the published assessments of the food. The hotel itself is a colonial building with all the modern conveniences and a traditional courtyard around which the restaurant is assembled.
Immediately adjacent to the hotel is a marketplace type enclosure that houses many counter service type restaurants, which specialize in regional cuisine, at very economical prices. We also dined at the Restaurant Zaci, which is located on Calle 36 at Calle 37 in the downtown area immediately adjacent to the stalactite adorned Cenote Zaci. Although we can’t really recommend swimming at the cenote, we can recommend an afternoon michelada and complementary botanas in the restaurant.
Cenote Zaci, Valladolid
Valladolid is an excellent shopping destination; especially if hand embroidered Mayan garments are on your list. These are readily available in the shops surrounding the central plaza. A short drive west of town, toward Chichen Itza, will land you at the Crafts from the Jail shop where high quality hammocks are available in profusion. Yucatecan hammocks are supposed to be the finest in Mexico and, I have read in more than one place, “some of the best hammocks are produced in prisons.” True on not - I can’t say for certain. But, a stop at the roadside jail stand and a test lie-down of a tightly woven cotton model made me a believer.
So as to avoid any withdrawal symptoms from our ruin tour, we made a trip Ek Balam, a relatively recent site, as far as discovery and display goes. We were struck by the fortified nature of this site. It is more rugged in appearance with external walls, not common in early Mayan cities. Additionally Structure 10, which is encountered immediately to the right after passing over the perimeter wall, has a rounded base with a caracol shaped external riser. One imagines this is what the stairways inside the structures at Chichen Itza might resemble. This is first example we have actually seen.
Structure 10, Ek Balam
The centerpiece of Ek Balam is the absolutely enormous acropolis structure, reportedly one of the largest structures in Mesoamerica. It is 32 climbable meters high and the climb is a bit precarious but the view from the top is spectacular. Be careful in the wind though.
View from atop the Acropolis at Ek Balam
Ruins at Ek Balam with Giant Acropolis in the Distance
The acropolis structure houses much bas-relief and sculpture, most notably a giant jaguar mouth fully lined with teeth. It is apparent (from the material, color, and texture) that this is a recreation, and a new one at that. Perhaps more authentic elements of the acropolis are the chultunes, or wells, as they are called. However, well is a bit of a misnomer. These were more rain barrels than wells, functioning to capture as much water as possible during the rainy season. There are no rivers or surficial fresh water flows on the Yucatan. The Mayans relied solely on rainwater capture and, in some cases, cenotes for water supplies. Any one who has experienced the dry, hot, thirst this climate creates can imagine the difficulties and urgencies that might present.
Mouth of the Namesake Jaguar, Ek Balam
Chultune (Well), Ek Balam
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