Riviera Maya – Quintana Roo – Tulum
5/19/09 – 5/21/09
South of the booming vacation city of Cancun lies a gorgeous stretch of beaches known as the Riviera Maya. The powder-fine white sand extends for miles facing the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean. Without a doubt this is one of the best places in the world for a beach vacation. However, the Riviera Maya area boasts more than just beaches and gives you access to ruins, cenotes, lagoons, water sports, wildlife viewing, amusement parks and loads of great shopping.
Since we stayed in Playa del Carmen last year, we chose to bypass it on our way further south. That being said, Playa is an outstanding choice for a stylish and fun vacation spot. We loved Allison and Andrew’s condo on the north end of town, yet just around the corner from the pedestrian only Fifth Avenue. This two bedroom condo is perfectly located to stroll to Mamita’s beach, yet far enough from the south end clubs to maintain a sense of peacefulness. The courtyard pool is great for a quick dip to cool off and the property is impeccably managed.
Driving south from Cancun, you pass resort after mega-sized resort with fountains, elaborate landscaping and huge guarded entries. These are the all-inclusive properties of the Riviera Maya, which are certainly popular and well-equipped to serve the needs of American tourists. There are also many condos and beach homes for rent along the coast with various price tags and amenities. The sleepy fishing village of Puerto Morelos is a nice undeveloped spot for local Mexican flavor. Akumal is famous for sea turtles and great snorkeling in the lagoon. Tankah Bay seems to have the best deals for fancy house rentals. VRBO is a great source for house/condo rentals and Loco Gringo is an excellent reference for everything in the Riviera Maya region.
It should also be noted that two oceanside campgrounds still exist at Xpu-ha (the X beaches) – they are located between kilometer 264 and 265 just north of the Pemex station. If you are travelling south you will need to make a U-turn after the Pemex as Hwy 307 is divided. Heading north, turn toward the beach at the brown Bonanza campground sign, but if you miss it, you can take the next right at the La Playa restaurant road. The campgrounds are adjacent to each other – a small car could traverse between the palm trees, but bigger vehicles may need to use one entrance or the other.
For a low-key and international flavor located on a fabulous stretch of beach, head further south to the town of Tulum, where eco-chic properties rule the roost and range from small luxury hotels to simple cabanas and tent/hammock camping. The Tulum area is more or less divided into three regions, although the rapid growth there will soon merge them together. The Tulum archeological site lies furthest north and is easily accessible by collective taxis that run from Playa del Carmen and beyond. Tulum pueblo is centered around Hwy 307 and is home to shops, restaurants, budget accommodations and a burgeoning housing market. To reach the Tulum beach area and hotel zone, turn left onto the Boca Paila road (opposite direction from the road to Coba) and continue on to the water’s edge. There are numerous possibilities along the beach road – the choices are actually a bit overwhelming. For more budget digs, head to Copal’s cabanas which have great beach access and atmosphere, immaculate shared bathrooms, but could use some maintenance and cleaning in the cabanas themselves. I suspect during the high season the cabanas are a bit more maintained. There are also several places to camp and a few places to park a van or truck camper – just look for the camping signs along the road.
Because it is both the low season and so many reservations have been canceled due to the flu scare, we were able to score an fantastic deal of only 600 pesos a night at the Luna Maya hotel. This small but well-managed property has lovely rooms, a delicious and innovative restaurant, 24 hour solar-cell power, free wi-fi internet, hot water and comfy beds. The beach access and facilities are nice and fairly secluded, but are located in a cove which has rocky spots, collects a lot of seaweed particles and gets choppy in the afternoon. There is a platform built up on the rocks which provides beautiful sweeping views of the Caribbean and a nice private spot for tanning those areas that may have not (ever!) seen the sun.
View from the Beach Platform, Hotel Luna Maya
Beach at Hotel Luna Maya
If you are looking for wide, seemingly endless powder beaches with modern spacious cabanas, head further south along the beach to Playa Azul. This newer property is owned and managed by a group of young investors who have spared no detail in providing outstanding amenities while maintaining a low-key hip atmosphere. There are palapas, sun chairs, beach beds, kayaks, boogie boards, snorkeling equipment, kiteboarding lessons and much more available on-site, plus a beautiful full service three-level bar and restaurant.
Beach at Playa Azul
The Tulum pueblo has changed so much in the past year, and now is home to many international residents, restaurants and coffee shops. We ate some of the best food in Mexico at Ginger on Hwy 307. The sauteed strawberry salad, shrimp pasta and thick(!) steak were delectable. Ginger is the creation of a chef/owner originally from Mexico City and is a favorite among the international transplanted 30-somethings currently living in the area. Try El Mariachi for traditional Mexican food and a simple cold beer or chelada. On Sunday nights, be sure to head to La Zebra in the beach/hotel zone for free salsa lessons, or just a good show. La Zebra rents nice but expensive cabanas and has an almost always happening tourist bar scene with delicious drink options.
The ruins in Tulum are unique in that they are located by the sea, and therefore are fortified and protected inside a large wall. Most of the ruins are high on a cliff above the ocean. This archeological site is user-friendly, compact and easily negotiable. Bring your swimming suit, as the beach and water in front of Tulum are first-rate – there are even some decent snorkeling spots.
El Templo del Dios Del Viento, Tulum
El Castillo, Tulum
Mini Temples, Tulum
El Castillo and the Beach, Tulum
Templo de las Pinturas, Tulum
El Castillo, Tulum
Since we visited them last year, we skipped the Sian Ka’an biosphere and the Coba ruins this time around. However, we recommend both of these places very highly. Sian Ka’an is an exceptional spot for bird-watching, secluded beaches, lagoon boat rides and superb fishing opportunities at the end of the Boca Paila road in Punta Allen. The road has a lot of potholes but is perfectly navigable if you take your time – although watch out for the jeep tours flying by. Traveling in the opposite direction from Tulum you can reach ruins of Coba which are well worth it for the jungle atmosphere, relatively undeveloped site and the opportunity to climb an un-manicured pyramid. Bicycles are available for rental within the site along with rides on the tricycle carts. Last year we wandered through the less visited areas of Coba and spotted a ringtail coatamundi on the trail.
While I love the Riviera Maya, I do have to mention that it has some of the most expensive and over-the-top accommodations in Mexico. Having traveled in Mexico for the past 5 months, the Yucatan peninsula seems over-developed and sterile, costly and ostentatious. That being said, I still love this area of Mexico for its undeniable charm and beauty. The Riviera Maya is still by far my favorite place for swimming. The gentle waves of the Caribbean invite me to float without a care, the crystal water allowing perfect visibility and the powder fine sand providing easy sloping access into the water. Adding to the gorgeous water and beaches, the accessibility of all the other attractions makes Quintana Roo a fabulous vacation destination. While it is not exactly low-budget, deals can be found, and if not, just live it up and enjoy!!
South of the booming vacation city of Cancun lies a gorgeous stretch of beaches known as the Riviera Maya. The powder-fine white sand extends for miles facing the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean. Without a doubt this is one of the best places in the world for a beach vacation. However, the Riviera Maya area boasts more than just beaches and gives you access to ruins, cenotes, lagoons, water sports, wildlife viewing, amusement parks and loads of great shopping.
Since we stayed in Playa del Carmen last year, we chose to bypass it on our way further south. That being said, Playa is an outstanding choice for a stylish and fun vacation spot. We loved Allison and Andrew’s condo on the north end of town, yet just around the corner from the pedestrian only Fifth Avenue. This two bedroom condo is perfectly located to stroll to Mamita’s beach, yet far enough from the south end clubs to maintain a sense of peacefulness. The courtyard pool is great for a quick dip to cool off and the property is impeccably managed.
Driving south from Cancun, you pass resort after mega-sized resort with fountains, elaborate landscaping and huge guarded entries. These are the all-inclusive properties of the Riviera Maya, which are certainly popular and well-equipped to serve the needs of American tourists. There are also many condos and beach homes for rent along the coast with various price tags and amenities. The sleepy fishing village of Puerto Morelos is a nice undeveloped spot for local Mexican flavor. Akumal is famous for sea turtles and great snorkeling in the lagoon. Tankah Bay seems to have the best deals for fancy house rentals. VRBO is a great source for house/condo rentals and Loco Gringo is an excellent reference for everything in the Riviera Maya region.
It should also be noted that two oceanside campgrounds still exist at Xpu-ha (the X beaches) – they are located between kilometer 264 and 265 just north of the Pemex station. If you are travelling south you will need to make a U-turn after the Pemex as Hwy 307 is divided. Heading north, turn toward the beach at the brown Bonanza campground sign, but if you miss it, you can take the next right at the La Playa restaurant road. The campgrounds are adjacent to each other – a small car could traverse between the palm trees, but bigger vehicles may need to use one entrance or the other.
For a low-key and international flavor located on a fabulous stretch of beach, head further south to the town of Tulum, where eco-chic properties rule the roost and range from small luxury hotels to simple cabanas and tent/hammock camping. The Tulum area is more or less divided into three regions, although the rapid growth there will soon merge them together. The Tulum archeological site lies furthest north and is easily accessible by collective taxis that run from Playa del Carmen and beyond. Tulum pueblo is centered around Hwy 307 and is home to shops, restaurants, budget accommodations and a burgeoning housing market. To reach the Tulum beach area and hotel zone, turn left onto the Boca Paila road (opposite direction from the road to Coba) and continue on to the water’s edge. There are numerous possibilities along the beach road – the choices are actually a bit overwhelming. For more budget digs, head to Copal’s cabanas which have great beach access and atmosphere, immaculate shared bathrooms, but could use some maintenance and cleaning in the cabanas themselves. I suspect during the high season the cabanas are a bit more maintained. There are also several places to camp and a few places to park a van or truck camper – just look for the camping signs along the road.
Because it is both the low season and so many reservations have been canceled due to the flu scare, we were able to score an fantastic deal of only 600 pesos a night at the Luna Maya hotel. This small but well-managed property has lovely rooms, a delicious and innovative restaurant, 24 hour solar-cell power, free wi-fi internet, hot water and comfy beds. The beach access and facilities are nice and fairly secluded, but are located in a cove which has rocky spots, collects a lot of seaweed particles and gets choppy in the afternoon. There is a platform built up on the rocks which provides beautiful sweeping views of the Caribbean and a nice private spot for tanning those areas that may have not (ever!) seen the sun.
View from the Beach Platform, Hotel Luna Maya
Beach at Hotel Luna Maya
If you are looking for wide, seemingly endless powder beaches with modern spacious cabanas, head further south along the beach to Playa Azul. This newer property is owned and managed by a group of young investors who have spared no detail in providing outstanding amenities while maintaining a low-key hip atmosphere. There are palapas, sun chairs, beach beds, kayaks, boogie boards, snorkeling equipment, kiteboarding lessons and much more available on-site, plus a beautiful full service three-level bar and restaurant.
Beach at Playa Azul
The Tulum pueblo has changed so much in the past year, and now is home to many international residents, restaurants and coffee shops. We ate some of the best food in Mexico at Ginger on Hwy 307. The sauteed strawberry salad, shrimp pasta and thick(!) steak were delectable. Ginger is the creation of a chef/owner originally from Mexico City and is a favorite among the international transplanted 30-somethings currently living in the area. Try El Mariachi for traditional Mexican food and a simple cold beer or chelada. On Sunday nights, be sure to head to La Zebra in the beach/hotel zone for free salsa lessons, or just a good show. La Zebra rents nice but expensive cabanas and has an almost always happening tourist bar scene with delicious drink options.
The ruins in Tulum are unique in that they are located by the sea, and therefore are fortified and protected inside a large wall. Most of the ruins are high on a cliff above the ocean. This archeological site is user-friendly, compact and easily negotiable. Bring your swimming suit, as the beach and water in front of Tulum are first-rate – there are even some decent snorkeling spots.
El Templo del Dios Del Viento, Tulum
El Castillo, Tulum
Mini Temples, Tulum
El Castillo and the Beach, Tulum
Templo de las Pinturas, Tulum
El Castillo, Tulum
Since we visited them last year, we skipped the Sian Ka’an biosphere and the Coba ruins this time around. However, we recommend both of these places very highly. Sian Ka’an is an exceptional spot for bird-watching, secluded beaches, lagoon boat rides and superb fishing opportunities at the end of the Boca Paila road in Punta Allen. The road has a lot of potholes but is perfectly navigable if you take your time – although watch out for the jeep tours flying by. Traveling in the opposite direction from Tulum you can reach ruins of Coba which are well worth it for the jungle atmosphere, relatively undeveloped site and the opportunity to climb an un-manicured pyramid. Bicycles are available for rental within the site along with rides on the tricycle carts. Last year we wandered through the less visited areas of Coba and spotted a ringtail coatamundi on the trail.
While I love the Riviera Maya, I do have to mention that it has some of the most expensive and over-the-top accommodations in Mexico. Having traveled in Mexico for the past 5 months, the Yucatan peninsula seems over-developed and sterile, costly and ostentatious. That being said, I still love this area of Mexico for its undeniable charm and beauty. The Riviera Maya is still by far my favorite place for swimming. The gentle waves of the Caribbean invite me to float without a care, the crystal water allowing perfect visibility and the powder fine sand providing easy sloping access into the water. Adding to the gorgeous water and beaches, the accessibility of all the other attractions makes Quintana Roo a fabulous vacation destination. While it is not exactly low-budget, deals can be found, and if not, just live it up and enjoy!!
Comments