Ambergris Caye (am-BER-gris key)

5/27/09
Since we are still operating an hour earlier on Mexican time and the morning sun enters our room at the jolly hour of 5 am, we decided to hop the early flight from Corozal to Ambergris Caye.  There are two airlines in Belize, Tropic Air and Maya Island Air, which both serve Corozal and have similar schedules and pricing.  We chose Tropic Air, which seems to be the more popular of the two based on passenger numbers.  It was such a joy to fly without all the rigmarole of major airlines – no security checks, no reservations, no nothing!  Just show up, pay your money, get a plastic boarding pass that you give back when you board, and fly away.  Taking off at 7:30, we flew over the mainland and ocean to reach San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.  The eight-seater airplane ride was minimally bumpy, although the heat radiating inside the cabin made us thankful it was only a 30 minute flight.  


Inside the Tropic Air cabin

Inside the 8-seater airplane

Sugar Cane fields outside Corozal Town

River and Lagoon in North Belize

Lagoons in North Belize

East Belize mainland coastline

Off the Belizean Coast

Arriving in San Pedro at 8 am we found very little open and mostly schoolchildren and parents on the streets and parks.  We booked a snorkeling trip at Bottom Time Dive Shop and went in search of food.  The only place in town open before 11 am is Celi’s Deli, which does a brisk takeout business of sandwiches, tacos and coffee.  Thankfully they are an arm of the Holiday Hotel and Celi’s Restaurant across the street which provides a nice shaded patio overlooking the water.  

Ambergris Caye is most famous for the 25 mile barrier reef sitting only 1/3 mile offshore.  Diving and snorkeling opportunities abound for both the novice and expert.  The snorkeling trips from Ambergris Caye seem to be fairly standardized around town, unless you want to arrange a special trip, time or location.  Most boats leave at 9 am and range from small fishing boats to large catamarans.  The first stop on the snorkeling tour is Hol Chan Marine Reserve.  This protected area lies on the reef about 4 miles outside of San Pedro.  Since there are strong currents, the boat operator/snorkeling guide will tie the boat to a mooring line and help you navigate the various parts of the reef.  The tour goes from shallow depths to deeper water facing a large coral shelf, across the Hol Chan channel and back to shallow coral.  We saw French Angelfish, Spotfin Butterflyfish, Honeycomb Cowfish, Parrotfish, a large school of Black Margates, a Nurse Shark, Sting Rays, two Sea Turtles and much much more.  The second stop on the snorkeling trip is Shark Ray Alley, which is home to large numbers of Jacks, Sting Rays and Nurse Sharks.  Most boat tours attract these with bait.  It is a little unnerving getting in the water with sharks and rays, quite frankly I waited until the sharks swam away before jumping off the boat.  I did manage to get up the nerve to pet one of the sting rays though.  The snorkeling trip takes about 2 ½ to 3 hours in total.  Prices vary depending on group size and boat type but are well worth the expense for this fantastic experience.


Snorkel boats lining up at Hol Chan Marine Reserve

San Pedro, Ambergris Caye coastline

After the snorkeling, we were thirsty and headed into the Tacklebox Bar and Grill.  This bar sits over the ocean past the water taxi dock and provides cold beer, good drinks, tasty food and a fun atmosphere.  The staff is friendly, informative and ready to please.  Later we rented a golf cart, the island’s preferred method of travel, at Island Adventures.  Motoring north across the toll bridge out of town, where the road deteriorates considerably, we stopped for fish tacos, pulled pork and spiked limeades at the Palapa Bar.  This bar and restaurant sits out on a pier and is a lovely place to sit back and enjoy the spectacular views and laidback atmosphere of the Belizean Cayes.  


North Ambergris Caye Road Conditions

Palapa Bar and Grill, North Ambergris Caye

North Ambergris Caye coastline


 
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