Shipstern – Corozal District
5/28/2009
After a previous failed attempt (still learning how to navigate in Belize) to reach the Shipstern Nature Reserve, we set out again for the northeastern corner of the Corozal District. Shipstern is located three miles from the fishing village of Sarteneja. If you are asking a local for directions, this is a better destination to request, as Shipstern is not apparently as well known.
Shipstern can be accessed from Orange Walk through San Estevan but if travelling from Corozal we strongly recommend taking the ferry across the New River. On this crossing we were slightly delayed by a tugboat and barge travelling down stream to reload on the sugarcane.
Tugboat and Barge on the New River
After crossing the ferry from Corozal, follow the road to the first T and take a right toward the town of Progresso, there are signs at the T for Progresso Heights. Take the middle road (straight ahead) through the town of Progresso. Take the first sharp left outside of town, directly across from a large brown pond. The road to Sarteneja is only signed in the opposite direction and is easy to miss. Keep an eye on the rearview mirror to make sure you do not miss the turn, marked with a green sign toward Chinox and Sarteneja. From this point the road continues all the way to Shipstern, with occasional signs providing reassurance. This is a rutted, pothole-laden, but very passable road. Travel time: approximately 1.5 hours.
Shipstern Nature Reserve was created and is overseen by the International Tropical Conservation Foundation (ITCF), a Swiss non-profit organization. It is home to all five native cats of Belize, nearly 300 bird species and the endangered Baird’s Tapir. However the most apparent species is the mosquito. We were greeted by swarms greater than any I have ever encountered elsewhere. Fortunately, repellent seemed to be quite effective so we persevered. An entrance fee to the reserve is required and includes a brief but thorough guided tour of the nature center, botanical trail and up the 88-foot lookout tower. The lookout was our favorite stop as it was mosquito free and afforded excellent views of the entire reserve and a unique perspective for spotting birds of the forest canopy. The highlight of our day was our first official Toucan sighting.
View from the Tower at Shipstern Nature Reserve
Diverse Forest Canopy, Shipstern Nature Reserve
Our guide was very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of the reserve. Access to the entire area is controlled through the visitor center and guided tours are available to specific wood stork nesting areas and protected mahogany forests, among other ecotones. Based on our experience, I expect these tours would be extremely worthwhile and educational, although I recommend the dry season to avoid the mosquito nuisance.
Before getting back on the (extremely) bumpy road to Corozal we took a quick trip through Sarteneja, a small fishing and boat building village where many of the residents were working together to tow a boat out of the water. This is quite representative of our impression of Belize thus far.
Team Work in Sarteneja
We stopped at the Backpacker’s Paradise campground, cabanas and restaurant on our way out of town. This little spot is owned and operated by Nathalie, a Swiss woman who came to Belize as a researcher at Shipstern and has since established this terrific haven. The camping facilities are in a beautiful location and the restaurant, serving authentic crepes, is outstanding. Although Shipstern is a bit of a trip for a one-day adventure, the abundance of wildlife and biological diversity in the area certainly get my recommendation. For a more leisurely trip, Sarteneja is also accessible by the Thunderbolt water taxi from Corozal.
After a previous failed attempt (still learning how to navigate in Belize) to reach the Shipstern Nature Reserve, we set out again for the northeastern corner of the Corozal District. Shipstern is located three miles from the fishing village of Sarteneja. If you are asking a local for directions, this is a better destination to request, as Shipstern is not apparently as well known.
Shipstern can be accessed from Orange Walk through San Estevan but if travelling from Corozal we strongly recommend taking the ferry across the New River. On this crossing we were slightly delayed by a tugboat and barge travelling down stream to reload on the sugarcane.
Tugboat and Barge on the New River
After crossing the ferry from Corozal, follow the road to the first T and take a right toward the town of Progresso, there are signs at the T for Progresso Heights. Take the middle road (straight ahead) through the town of Progresso. Take the first sharp left outside of town, directly across from a large brown pond. The road to Sarteneja is only signed in the opposite direction and is easy to miss. Keep an eye on the rearview mirror to make sure you do not miss the turn, marked with a green sign toward Chinox and Sarteneja. From this point the road continues all the way to Shipstern, with occasional signs providing reassurance. This is a rutted, pothole-laden, but very passable road. Travel time: approximately 1.5 hours.
Shipstern Nature Reserve was created and is overseen by the International Tropical Conservation Foundation (ITCF), a Swiss non-profit organization. It is home to all five native cats of Belize, nearly 300 bird species and the endangered Baird’s Tapir. However the most apparent species is the mosquito. We were greeted by swarms greater than any I have ever encountered elsewhere. Fortunately, repellent seemed to be quite effective so we persevered. An entrance fee to the reserve is required and includes a brief but thorough guided tour of the nature center, botanical trail and up the 88-foot lookout tower. The lookout was our favorite stop as it was mosquito free and afforded excellent views of the entire reserve and a unique perspective for spotting birds of the forest canopy. The highlight of our day was our first official Toucan sighting.
View from the Tower at Shipstern Nature Reserve
Diverse Forest Canopy, Shipstern Nature Reserve
Our guide was very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of the reserve. Access to the entire area is controlled through the visitor center and guided tours are available to specific wood stork nesting areas and protected mahogany forests, among other ecotones. Based on our experience, I expect these tours would be extremely worthwhile and educational, although I recommend the dry season to avoid the mosquito nuisance.
Before getting back on the (extremely) bumpy road to Corozal we took a quick trip through Sarteneja, a small fishing and boat building village where many of the residents were working together to tow a boat out of the water. This is quite representative of our impression of Belize thus far.
Team Work in Sarteneja
We stopped at the Backpacker’s Paradise campground, cabanas and restaurant on our way out of town. This little spot is owned and operated by Nathalie, a Swiss woman who came to Belize as a researcher at Shipstern and has since established this terrific haven. The camping facilities are in a beautiful location and the restaurant, serving authentic crepes, is outstanding. Although Shipstern is a bit of a trip for a one-day adventure, the abundance of wildlife and biological diversity in the area certainly get my recommendation. For a more leisurely trip, Sarteneja is also accessible by the Thunderbolt water taxi from Corozal.
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