Lamanai
5/29/2009
Lamanai is a formidable ruin site nestled on the banks of the 30-mile long New River Lagoon situated in a lush tropical jungle. It is believed that Lamanai experienced the longest occupation of any site in the Mayan world, extending as long as 3000 years until as recently as the 1600’s. It is easy to understand based on its ready access to trade routes via the New River, abundant water supply and fertile lands.
The easiest access to Lamanai is on a guided boat tour beginning 26 miles north on the New River in Orange Walk Town. There are numerous tour operators in Orange Walk. We hooked up with a group from the Lamanai Riverside Retreat, which we found by walking from the Town Square toward the river and looking for the boats. We had taken an early bus from Corozal to Orange Walk in time for the 9:00 am departure, but the Lamanai Riverside Retreat does have ample and secure parking.
The day tour consists of a moderately paced informative three-hour trip up the river with wildlife stops, as well as views of the Belize Sugar Industries, a rum distillery, and Mennonite settlements. Green iguanas were most abundant but we also had encounters with an array of tropical bird species, bats endemic to Belize, Morelet’s crocodiles, and spider monkeys.
Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)
Bats
Belize Sugar Industries
Near the rum distillery, Carlos stopped to visit some local Spider Monkeys and gave us bananas to feed them. While they are still wild and not to be touched, the female monkey did climb aboard the boat to hang out and eat the bananas. This encounter characterizes the somewhat aggressive style of wildlife viewing from this tour. It is fast-paced with an emphasis on getting as close as possible to the birds and animals, which mostly made them run or fly away. Not exactly our style of bird/wildlife-watching, but when in Rome…
Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi)
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Upon arrival at Lamanai we dined on a traditional rice and beans lunch and were then off to tour the archeological site, which is as rich and naturally diverse as any place we have been. The trails at Lamanai wind through dense tropical deciduous and coniferous forests. Our guide was quick to point out that the forest here is specifically not a rainforest, as Lamanai receives only 45 inches of rainfall per year. Enormous palms and Ceiba trees are characteristics as are exotic fruit trees. Lamanai is home to several troops of howler monkeys, which lazily occupy the forest canopy.
Shores of the New River Lagoon
Carlos, our tour guide in front of a large Guanacastle tree
Palm lined trails at Lamanai
Black Howler Monkeys (Alouatta pigra) - Howling
There are three large temples at Lamanai that have been well excavated and restored. These are The Mask Temple, The High Temple, and The Jaguar Temple. Lamanai also boasts perhaps the smallest ball court in the Mayan World. The center stone of the ball court, originally lying just underground of was discovered to have a hollowed out center that contained 91 grams of liquid mercury. The remaining 98 percent of the area remains fairly untouched, although obvious mounds of countless other buildings are evident throughout the forest. There are over 1500 buildings documented at Lamanai.
Mask Temple, Lamanai
Mask Temple, Lamanai
High Temple, Lamanai
Ball Court, Lamanai
Jaguar Temple, Lamanai
The verdant setting of Lamanai sets it apart from other ruins we have visited. While Palenque was quite lush, no other site has benefited from the ample freshwater supply that distinguishes Lamanai. Plus, these ruins are made most enjoyable by the toucan population that darts about.
Keel-Billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus), Lamanai
The tour concluded with a quick trip through the on-site museum and an expedited hour long cruise back down the river. Upon disembarking at the Lamanai River Retreat we had a cold beer and a delicious bite to eat. The River Retreat is promoted as having the best chef in town and we would add the best location too. It is the only apparent waterfront dining and the staff is more than ready to please. They do offer camping and rooms for rent as well. Because the day tour is quite long and a bit exhausting in the heat, an overnight at the River Retreat seems like an ideal way to make a leisurely visit to Lamanai.
Morelet’s Crocodile (Crocodylus moreletii) on the Banks of the New River
Because we are still stationed at the Hotel Maya, we took the short walk back to the clock tower and sought out the bus for Corozal. Going north, this is the bus marked for Chetumal. It seems to run about every half hour but in the apparent evening rush hour, these busses are very crowded. The 5:30 departure had no seats available so we deferred until the 6:00 bus, which also became standing room only. A little over an hour later we were dropped off right outside our door exhausted from a full day of adventure.
Lamanai is a formidable ruin site nestled on the banks of the 30-mile long New River Lagoon situated in a lush tropical jungle. It is believed that Lamanai experienced the longest occupation of any site in the Mayan world, extending as long as 3000 years until as recently as the 1600’s. It is easy to understand based on its ready access to trade routes via the New River, abundant water supply and fertile lands.
The easiest access to Lamanai is on a guided boat tour beginning 26 miles north on the New River in Orange Walk Town. There are numerous tour operators in Orange Walk. We hooked up with a group from the Lamanai Riverside Retreat, which we found by walking from the Town Square toward the river and looking for the boats. We had taken an early bus from Corozal to Orange Walk in time for the 9:00 am departure, but the Lamanai Riverside Retreat does have ample and secure parking.
The day tour consists of a moderately paced informative three-hour trip up the river with wildlife stops, as well as views of the Belize Sugar Industries, a rum distillery, and Mennonite settlements. Green iguanas were most abundant but we also had encounters with an array of tropical bird species, bats endemic to Belize, Morelet’s crocodiles, and spider monkeys.
Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)
Bats
Belize Sugar Industries
Near the rum distillery, Carlos stopped to visit some local Spider Monkeys and gave us bananas to feed them. While they are still wild and not to be touched, the female monkey did climb aboard the boat to hang out and eat the bananas. This encounter characterizes the somewhat aggressive style of wildlife viewing from this tour. It is fast-paced with an emphasis on getting as close as possible to the birds and animals, which mostly made them run or fly away. Not exactly our style of bird/wildlife-watching, but when in Rome…
Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi)
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Upon arrival at Lamanai we dined on a traditional rice and beans lunch and were then off to tour the archeological site, which is as rich and naturally diverse as any place we have been. The trails at Lamanai wind through dense tropical deciduous and coniferous forests. Our guide was quick to point out that the forest here is specifically not a rainforest, as Lamanai receives only 45 inches of rainfall per year. Enormous palms and Ceiba trees are characteristics as are exotic fruit trees. Lamanai is home to several troops of howler monkeys, which lazily occupy the forest canopy.
Shores of the New River Lagoon
Carlos, our tour guide in front of a large Guanacastle tree
Palm lined trails at Lamanai
Black Howler Monkeys (Alouatta pigra) - Howling
There are three large temples at Lamanai that have been well excavated and restored. These are The Mask Temple, The High Temple, and The Jaguar Temple. Lamanai also boasts perhaps the smallest ball court in the Mayan World. The center stone of the ball court, originally lying just underground of was discovered to have a hollowed out center that contained 91 grams of liquid mercury. The remaining 98 percent of the area remains fairly untouched, although obvious mounds of countless other buildings are evident throughout the forest. There are over 1500 buildings documented at Lamanai.
Mask Temple, Lamanai
Mask Temple, Lamanai
High Temple, Lamanai
Ball Court, Lamanai
Jaguar Temple, Lamanai
The verdant setting of Lamanai sets it apart from other ruins we have visited. While Palenque was quite lush, no other site has benefited from the ample freshwater supply that distinguishes Lamanai. Plus, these ruins are made most enjoyable by the toucan population that darts about.
Keel-Billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus), Lamanai
The tour concluded with a quick trip through the on-site museum and an expedited hour long cruise back down the river. Upon disembarking at the Lamanai River Retreat we had a cold beer and a delicious bite to eat. The River Retreat is promoted as having the best chef in town and we would add the best location too. It is the only apparent waterfront dining and the staff is more than ready to please. They do offer camping and rooms for rent as well. Because the day tour is quite long and a bit exhausting in the heat, an overnight at the River Retreat seems like an ideal way to make a leisurely visit to Lamanai.
Morelet’s Crocodile (Crocodylus moreletii) on the Banks of the New River
Because we are still stationed at the Hotel Maya, we took the short walk back to the clock tower and sought out the bus for Corozal. Going north, this is the bus marked for Chetumal. It seems to run about every half hour but in the apparent evening rush hour, these busses are very crowded. The 5:30 departure had no seats available so we deferred until the 6:00 bus, which also became standing room only. A little over an hour later we were dropped off right outside our door exhausted from a full day of adventure.
rum and monkeys?! the best day ever!!
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