Tikal
7/5/2009 – 7/6/2009
I must begin this entry with the simple statement that neither words nor photos can accurately portray the splendor that is Tikal. It is a site that must be experienced. That being said, Tikal is tremendous: the ruins, the jungle, the birds, the mammals, the butterflies, the trails. The list goes on. Hailed as another of the new seven wonders of the world and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tikal does not disappoint. The archeological site is contained within the 575 square kilometers of Tikal National Park, which is home to an extreme number of species that are constantly in evidence. Tikal is overwhelming to the senses, not just the sights, but the smells, and particularly the sounds. It is a literal cacophony of nature. Howler monkeys, spider monkeys, parrots, oropendolas, guans, turkeys, toucans, and manakins are the few species we were able to identify contributing to the litany of sound.

Pyramid (The oldest Mayan Structure at Tikal 700 BC), El Mundo Perdido, Tikal

Temple V (58 meters), Tikal

Temple I and The Grand Plaza, Tikal
We had heard that purchasing late afternoon entrance to Tikal would grant admission for the following day as well. So, in our continuing efforts to beat the heat and best use our time and admission fees, we decided to head inside the national park boundaries and consider the lodging options therein. Upon entering, each vehicle is greeted by a park attendant and given a paper ticket, which is used to control speeds within the park. The employee here was most helpful is warning us not exceed the 45 kph speed limit and not to pay the archeological site admission until 4:00 pm. Vehicle speeds are regulated by checkpoints within the park, where attendants write the time of passage and apparently determine whether you have exceeded the posted speed limits based on travel time between locations. A simple but very effective means of traffic control!
Within the National Park and in the immediate area of entrance to the ruins, there are three hotels and one national park campground. Although hotels here are pricier than those is surrounding towns, we decided being within walking distance of the site (allowing the convenience of an evening and early morning entrance) would be worth the expenditure. Best decision we have made in long time! We got a good deal at the Tikal Inn, which included both dinner and breakfast. We accessed the ruins at 4:00 for the remaining two hours of the day and then returned at 6:00 am for another few hours. These are obviously the coolest times of day, but are also the emptiest, and the most opportune for wildlife viewing. We were graced with large numbers of both species of monkeys, birds galore, and even a ring- tailed coatimundi with young.

Montezuma's Oropendola (Pasrocolius Montezuma) Nests, Tikal

Ring-tailed Coatimundi (Nasua nasua), Tikal
The ruins at Tikal differ from those we have previously visited in several ways, the setting, the dimensions, the commercialization. The lush jungle at Tikal is similar to Palenque, however Tikal is a bit more tropical and thus the vegetative composition is slightly different with a less dense ground cover and shrub layer, resulting in beautiful trails and pathways. The ruins at Tikal are in many ways less excavated. Jungle enveloped mountains of ruins (more than 4000 structures in the 16 sq km city center) are obvious at every turn. The expanse of the site and the height of the temples are staggering, extending far above the forest canopy. The administration at Tikal focuses on the natural beauty, with signage identifying tree species, enumerating phylum densities, and warning of defecating monkeys. Maps (a rarity thus far in our trip) are available at the entrance station, but other vendors are noticeably absent. Climbing on the ruins at Tikal is fairly restricted, but some of the Temples can be accessed from adjacent staircases, which terminate on the upper platforms. Temple IV, the highest structure at Tikal, is 68 meters and available for climbing.

Staircase to Temple IV

View from 68 meters atop Temple IV
Temple V, Temple II, and Temple I in the distance

Trails at Tikal

Temple I, Temple of the Grand Jaguar, Tikal
Regularly referenced as the most splendid site of the Mayan world, Tikal is complemented by the beauty of the National Park and the integrity with which it has been marketed. It is not a site to be rushed or one where you will leave laden with souvenirs. It is both a natural and anthropogenic marvel to be savored and respected for its intrinsic beauty.

Skyscrapers of Tikal

El Mundo Perdido, Tikal

Butterfly, Tikal
I must begin this entry with the simple statement that neither words nor photos can accurately portray the splendor that is Tikal. It is a site that must be experienced. That being said, Tikal is tremendous: the ruins, the jungle, the birds, the mammals, the butterflies, the trails. The list goes on. Hailed as another of the new seven wonders of the world and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tikal does not disappoint. The archeological site is contained within the 575 square kilometers of Tikal National Park, which is home to an extreme number of species that are constantly in evidence. Tikal is overwhelming to the senses, not just the sights, but the smells, and particularly the sounds. It is a literal cacophony of nature. Howler monkeys, spider monkeys, parrots, oropendolas, guans, turkeys, toucans, and manakins are the few species we were able to identify contributing to the litany of sound.

Pyramid (The oldest Mayan Structure at Tikal 700 BC), El Mundo Perdido, Tikal

Temple V (58 meters), Tikal

Temple I and The Grand Plaza, Tikal
We had heard that purchasing late afternoon entrance to Tikal would grant admission for the following day as well. So, in our continuing efforts to beat the heat and best use our time and admission fees, we decided to head inside the national park boundaries and consider the lodging options therein. Upon entering, each vehicle is greeted by a park attendant and given a paper ticket, which is used to control speeds within the park. The employee here was most helpful is warning us not exceed the 45 kph speed limit and not to pay the archeological site admission until 4:00 pm. Vehicle speeds are regulated by checkpoints within the park, where attendants write the time of passage and apparently determine whether you have exceeded the posted speed limits based on travel time between locations. A simple but very effective means of traffic control!
Within the National Park and in the immediate area of entrance to the ruins, there are three hotels and one national park campground. Although hotels here are pricier than those is surrounding towns, we decided being within walking distance of the site (allowing the convenience of an evening and early morning entrance) would be worth the expenditure. Best decision we have made in long time! We got a good deal at the Tikal Inn, which included both dinner and breakfast. We accessed the ruins at 4:00 for the remaining two hours of the day and then returned at 6:00 am for another few hours. These are obviously the coolest times of day, but are also the emptiest, and the most opportune for wildlife viewing. We were graced with large numbers of both species of monkeys, birds galore, and even a ring- tailed coatimundi with young.

Montezuma's Oropendola (Pasrocolius Montezuma) Nests, Tikal

Ring-tailed Coatimundi (Nasua nasua), Tikal
The ruins at Tikal differ from those we have previously visited in several ways, the setting, the dimensions, the commercialization. The lush jungle at Tikal is similar to Palenque, however Tikal is a bit more tropical and thus the vegetative composition is slightly different with a less dense ground cover and shrub layer, resulting in beautiful trails and pathways. The ruins at Tikal are in many ways less excavated. Jungle enveloped mountains of ruins (more than 4000 structures in the 16 sq km city center) are obvious at every turn. The expanse of the site and the height of the temples are staggering, extending far above the forest canopy. The administration at Tikal focuses on the natural beauty, with signage identifying tree species, enumerating phylum densities, and warning of defecating monkeys. Maps (a rarity thus far in our trip) are available at the entrance station, but other vendors are noticeably absent. Climbing on the ruins at Tikal is fairly restricted, but some of the Temples can be accessed from adjacent staircases, which terminate on the upper platforms. Temple IV, the highest structure at Tikal, is 68 meters and available for climbing.

Staircase to Temple IV

View from 68 meters atop Temple IV
Temple V, Temple II, and Temple I in the distance

Trails at Tikal

Temple I, Temple of the Grand Jaguar, Tikal
Regularly referenced as the most splendid site of the Mayan world, Tikal is complemented by the beauty of the National Park and the integrity with which it has been marketed. It is not a site to be rushed or one where you will leave laden with souvenirs. It is both a natural and anthropogenic marvel to be savored and respected for its intrinsic beauty.

Skyscrapers of Tikal

El Mundo Perdido, Tikal

Butterfly, Tikal

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