7/13/09 – 7/16/09

Lago Atitlan lies west of Antigua and is a caldera sandwiched between three volcanoes and steep hills.  This combination of scenery is breathtaking and has inspired generations of local and international artists and mystics.  The easiest town to access, and therefore the most populated, is Panajachel, on the northeastern side of the lake.  Panajachel is family-friendly and the streets are filled with tourist families from all over the world.

Lake Atitlan with Panajachel on the left

Waterfall on road to Pana

We stayed at the northwestern side of town in a lovely hotel across from the cathedral.  The Hotel Montana is hidden away down a side street, yet is a close walk to town, the market, nightlife and the lake.  It is super-clean and a great deal, plus has nice views of the mountainside and surprisingly, a spacious parking lot!  We enjoyed the music at the Gipsy Circus Bar and the food at Comedor San Francisco.  While Pana seems to be a nice town, the downsides for us were the barking dogs and dynamite blasts.  We also witnessed a rally or protest of some sort whose participants tipped a car on its side and later set it on fire.   I know that doesn’t sound family friendly, but the demonstration occurred in the non-touristy part of town and strangely enough wasn’t all that unfriendly.

Cathedral in Pana

Van Parking at the Hotel Montana

Deciding to check out both sides of the lake, we headed back up to the InterAmericana and over to the Santa Clara, San Marcos, San Pedro road.  This road winds through the country before dropping down into the lake.  After a series of blind hairpin turns (use your horn!) and a very steep descent, we arrived in the town of San Pablo.   While we intended to go to San Marcos, which is reputedly a more mellow, but mystical scene, we ended up heading toward San Pedro due to a lack of signage.  Not wanting to renegotiate town or any of the roads, we decided to go with it and arrived in San Pedro.

Road to San Marcos and San Pedro (taken from passenger window before turn)

San Pedro is a bit difficult to drive in (like most towns in Guatemala), due to the narrow streets, one-way traffic and in San Pedro’s case, the location on a steep hill leading down to a lake.  We managed to get over to the Santiago dock, where we had some drinks and nachos at La Playa Restaurant.  The owner and clientele are very fun, friendly and helpful and the atmosphere at La Playa is decidedly laid-back.  We stayed for two nights at the Mikasa Hotel on the beach which has a nice terrace with a view, although the water close to the shore tells another tale.

Mikasa Hotel terrace

San Pedro views

Lake views from Mikasa terrace

Trash among the reeds

Near the lake, San Pedro becomes a series of interlocking, twisting paths and sidewalks lined with businesses, small farming plots and private homes.  Near the Pana dock, the town explodes into cafes, bars and discos at every step populated by a thriving backpacker culture.  Definitely a party scene, San Pedro rocks into the wee hours of the morning.  Blessed by the lovely scenery and the cool breezes, local residents and international tourists brave their hangovers daily on the shores of Lake Atitlan.

Sidewalk businesses on the “Gringo Trail” between Santiago and Pana docks

Paths through small farming plots near the lake

Lake Atitlan shores in San Pedro