Isla Ometepe/Rio San Juan Adventure – The Ferry
9/10/09 – 9/19/09
Since we had secured parking for the van in Granada, we took advantage of the opportunity to go on an impromptu backpacking island/river adventure. A ferry departs Granada on Mondays and Thursdays to head across Lake Nicaragua, returning from San Carlos on the Rio San Juan on Tuesdays and Fridays. The approximate 14 hour voyage makes three stops along the way, first on Ometepe Island, comprised of two large volcanoes and a narrow isthmus between the two. We embarked on the journey on the 2pm Thursday ferry, which actually departed around 3:30 due to loads of cargo that kept appearing on the dock. However, eventually we got underway and a smooth ride across the lake ensued, starting with views of the Granada isletas and soon bringing the twin volcanoes of Ometepe into view.
Since we had secured parking for the van in Granada, we took advantage of the opportunity to go on an impromptu backpacking island/river adventure. A ferry departs Granada on Mondays and Thursdays to head across Lake Nicaragua, returning from San Carlos on the Rio San Juan on Tuesdays and Fridays. The approximate 14 hour voyage makes three stops along the way, first on Ometepe Island, comprised of two large volcanoes and a narrow isthmus between the two. We embarked on the journey on the 2pm Thursday ferry, which actually departed around 3:30 due to loads of cargo that kept appearing on the dock. However, eventually we got underway and a smooth ride across the lake ensued, starting with views of the Granada isletas and soon bringing the twin volcanoes of Ometepe into view.
Ometepe Island
Theoretically, you are allowed to buy tickets for either the top or bottom deck of the ferry, which are different in price by half (or double, depending how you look at it.) The top deck has an air-conditioned cabin and more outside space, including a narrow aisle to hang hammocks, whereas the lower deck has more inside space, a food stand and open windows. We were planning to spring for the top deck at a price of $4.50 for the ride to Ometepe and in fact were never asked by the ticket agent which deck we preferred. Later in the trip several other “gringos” said they were not allowed to purchase tickets on the lower deck and were told foreigners are required to purchase the more expensive ticket. That being said, I am fairly certain there were a few foreign backpackers on the lower deck of the first ferry, so I think this “rule” could be fought if you had enough time/patience/Spanish skills/perseverance.
Many of the local folks boarded the ferry early and immediately piled all of their luggage onto the few available benches, presumably to save the seats. We followed suit, and luckily procured some seats for the ride. However, we found this all very perplexing and wasteful when these same folks proceeded to string up hammocks, rent chairs and take up an entire side of the outside deck, while keeping their luggage on the inside benches. This ridiculous and selfish use of the benches resulted in many people having no seats inside. The lack of common courtesy or respect for others became seriously annoying on the overnight rides when the benches were filled with luggage, rather than people, forcing the “latecomers” to sit and sleep on the floor, perched on their own luggage.
Hammock area
Upper back deck with rental chairs
Seats are for luggage??
Our ferry ride from Granada to Altagracia on Thursday was fairly peaceful – it was daytime, and although we were delayed by an hour and a half, it was a decent ride. We had seats, the movies weren’t too terribly loud and although the other ferry-goers were not friendly, they were not exactly rude either. The ride from Altagracia to San Carlos on Monday was great. Although there were rumors the boat was canceled due to the national holiday, it came on time and was even fairly empty. Plus, the folks going to San Carlos were friendly, happy and courteous. With room to spare and polite folks onboard, everyone on the upper deck had either a bench, hammock or chair to sleep in. The experience was complete with a large snoring man whose nasal expulsions were quite comical. We made friends with a lady from San Carlos who told us a joke about a slang word for snoring that is the same as a local Nicaraguan street food. Of course we didn’t quite understand the word play, but tried to laugh in the appropriate places.
Spoiling this blissful ride however, was a showing of the horror movie, Saw IV, which was disturbing and played at such a high volume that I was unable to stay inside the cabin. Jess reported that on the lower deck, babies and children were crying and inconsolable during this barrage of unnecessary cinematic violence. One would think the management would put a bit more care into the selection of their onboard “entertainment”. We were told they showed soft-core porn on different ferry, which is also a peculiar choice for public and family consumption. However, a showing of the classic 80s film, Dirty Dancing, was a fun diversion and an apt tribute to the late Patrick Swayze. Also not to be missed on the ferry is the food from the bottom deck. The fried chicken may well be the best I’ve ever eaten! They also have fantastic cabbage salad, plantain chips, a potato/cheese fritter type item, rice, beans and other offerings which are all tasty and very reasonably priced.
On the way back from San Carlos on Friday, we attempted to fly to Managua in order to cut our travel time back and avoid another night on the ferry. When we arrived at the airport, we found the morning flight full and all afternoon flights suspended until November 27. Of course this was news to our new friend Molly and another Managuan who both held recently purchased tickets for afternoon flights that week. In light of this, I definitely recommend reservations for any La Costena flights, along with follow up confirmation and/or back up plans. We ended up back on the ferry to Granada which was packed with fairly unfriendly folks and the same luggage-on-bench scenario. Jess and I attempted to sleep while sharing a bench and exited the ferry 16 hours later exhausted and overwhelmed. On the plus side, we learned that blowing up an empty Camelbak water bag makes for a great pillow. Also we were awake for the “food service” from the San Miguelito docks, where children board the boat selling everything from delicious empanadas to hot coffee served from a bucket. We were also treated to a fabulous sunset behind Isla Ometepe, which was a fitting end to our island/river adventure.
San Miguelito dock
Sunset behind Isla Ometepe
*Side note – a new “tourist” ferry service started mid-September with a boat leaving San Carlos at 7 pm on Thursdays and returning Sundays at 6pm from Granada. This boat is twice the price as the other ferry and also includes a suite option, at an even higher price, but with a bed and private bathroom. Since this is a new service it would be advisable to check times, dates and availability, but it may be a good alternative to a full boat, canceled flight or simply to get a decent night’s sleep during the excursion.
Theoretically, you are allowed to buy tickets for either the top or bottom deck of the ferry, which are different in price by half (or double, depending how you look at it.) The top deck has an air-conditioned cabin and more outside space, including a narrow aisle to hang hammocks, whereas the lower deck has more inside space, a food stand and open windows. We were planning to spring for the top deck at a price of $4.50 for the ride to Ometepe and in fact were never asked by the ticket agent which deck we preferred. Later in the trip several other “gringos” said they were not allowed to purchase tickets on the lower deck and were told foreigners are required to purchase the more expensive ticket. That being said, I am fairly certain there were a few foreign backpackers on the lower deck of the first ferry, so I think this “rule” could be fought if you had enough time/patience/Spanish skills/perseverance.
Many of the local folks boarded the ferry early and immediately piled all of their luggage onto the few available benches, presumably to save the seats. We followed suit, and luckily procured some seats for the ride. However, we found this all very perplexing and wasteful when these same folks proceeded to string up hammocks, rent chairs and take up an entire side of the outside deck, while keeping their luggage on the inside benches. This ridiculous and selfish use of the benches resulted in many people having no seats inside. The lack of common courtesy or respect for others became seriously annoying on the overnight rides when the benches were filled with luggage, rather than people, forcing the “latecomers” to sit and sleep on the floor, perched on their own luggage.
Hammock area
Upper back deck with rental chairs
Seats are for luggage??
Our ferry ride from Granada to Altagracia on Thursday was fairly peaceful – it was daytime, and although we were delayed by an hour and a half, it was a decent ride. We had seats, the movies weren’t too terribly loud and although the other ferry-goers were not friendly, they were not exactly rude either. The ride from Altagracia to San Carlos on Monday was great. Although there were rumors the boat was canceled due to the national holiday, it came on time and was even fairly empty. Plus, the folks going to San Carlos were friendly, happy and courteous. With room to spare and polite folks onboard, everyone on the upper deck had either a bench, hammock or chair to sleep in. The experience was complete with a large snoring man whose nasal expulsions were quite comical. We made friends with a lady from San Carlos who told us a joke about a slang word for snoring that is the same as a local Nicaraguan street food. Of course we didn’t quite understand the word play, but tried to laugh in the appropriate places.
Spoiling this blissful ride however, was a showing of the horror movie, Saw IV, which was disturbing and played at such a high volume that I was unable to stay inside the cabin. Jess reported that on the lower deck, babies and children were crying and inconsolable during this barrage of unnecessary cinematic violence. One would think the management would put a bit more care into the selection of their onboard “entertainment”. We were told they showed soft-core porn on different ferry, which is also a peculiar choice for public and family consumption. However, a showing of the classic 80s film, Dirty Dancing, was a fun diversion and an apt tribute to the late Patrick Swayze. Also not to be missed on the ferry is the food from the bottom deck. The fried chicken may well be the best I’ve ever eaten! They also have fantastic cabbage salad, plantain chips, a potato/cheese fritter type item, rice, beans and other offerings which are all tasty and very reasonably priced.
On the way back from San Carlos on Friday, we attempted to fly to Managua in order to cut our travel time back and avoid another night on the ferry. When we arrived at the airport, we found the morning flight full and all afternoon flights suspended until November 27. Of course this was news to our new friend Molly and another Managuan who both held recently purchased tickets for afternoon flights that week. In light of this, I definitely recommend reservations for any La Costena flights, along with follow up confirmation and/or back up plans. We ended up back on the ferry to Granada which was packed with fairly unfriendly folks and the same luggage-on-bench scenario. Jess and I attempted to sleep while sharing a bench and exited the ferry 16 hours later exhausted and overwhelmed. On the plus side, we learned that blowing up an empty Camelbak water bag makes for a great pillow. Also we were awake for the “food service” from the San Miguelito docks, where children board the boat selling everything from delicious empanadas to hot coffee served from a bucket. We were also treated to a fabulous sunset behind Isla Ometepe, which was a fitting end to our island/river adventure.
San Miguelito dock
Sunset behind Isla Ometepe
*Side note – a new “tourist” ferry service started mid-September with a boat leaving San Carlos at 7 pm on Thursdays and returning Sundays at 6pm from Granada. This boat is twice the price as the other ferry and also includes a suite option, at an even higher price, but with a bed and private bathroom. Since this is a new service it would be advisable to check times, dates and availability, but it may be a good alternative to a full boat, canceled flight or simply to get a decent night’s sleep during the excursion.
Amazing views and what a boat, the Hokey Pokey could take the pointers !!
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