9/22/2009
After our dismal experiences on our El Salvador-Honduras-Nicaragua border-crossing day, we were not, to say the very least, at all looking forward to another border crossing. However, we made a conscious decision to prepare ourselves as completely possible for entry into Costa Rica at Penas Blancas. We had had enough of harassment from throngs of border crossing “assistants,” repeated propina (tip) requests and general corruption.

Rebekah conducted an exhaustive internet search for details of the procedures at the Penas Blancas crossing, and armed with a notepad full of itemized steps we departed San Juan del Sur for the border. Right on cue, as we entered the border zone, the van was surrounded by young men aggressively wanting to provide assistance. We pulled directly to the official gate where we paid our $1 (each) municipal tax and procured our boletas de revision tourismo over the very hectic shouting of would be assistants. Continuous refusal of the their services was necessary but as we made it apparent that there would be no propina from us on this day, we eventually shook them and made our way through the remaining exit procedures (which are thoroughly outlined here) and, for a grand total of six dollars in official fees, successfully exited Nicaragua.

Onto Costa Rica. Accessing the immigration station with the van proved a bit challenging due to an abundance of truck traffic. Immigration is immediately to the left after one passes through a fumigation area. However this access was blocked by a idling semi-truck so we proceeded to the right, the wrong way down a one-way, and looped back around to immigration. Costa Rican entry is quite simple and actually free, (save for the $12 car insurance) just a bit time consuming. We took our place in the immigration line winding around the building and waited. Many folks try to “sell” you the free form, which is available inside at the immigration counter. There were also offers to expedite the processing, where men will take your passport and immigration card and cut the line on your behalf.  Refusing all these options, we patiently waited among the international crowd and proceeded slow and steadily through the line. At the immigration window, passports were rapidly stamped without question and then it was a quick trip though the insurance and customs procedures, as few people seemed to be importing vehicles on this day. A detailed description of this process is available here.

We thought we were through in about an hour but realized there was a final step, which requires the entering of the customs paperwork into the computer system. This takes place in an air-conditioned bus where the customs officials are housed, while the waiting public lines up outside, jockeying for position for a turn to climb onto a little step and hand paperwork through the window. Here we were severely delayed by a group of approximately 50 motorcyclists all processing their paperwork.  Waiting in line in Central America, particularly at border crossings, is always a test of patience and could often be considered a competitive sport. However, after another hour and a half, we were finally on our way, pleased with our success of the day:  no tipping, no extraneous fees and no corruption.