Cult of the Cougar

Big Bend National Park - West

2010-03-10T17:49:00Z

We are thrilled to be in the beautiful Big Bend National Park. Hiking and camping opportunities abound and we are taking advantage!
West Entrance

Outside Cottonwood Campground

Hike to Mule Ears Spring

Outside Mule Ears Spring

Mule Ears Spring runoff

Old house structure on Mule Ears trail

Mule Ears

Overlooking cut across Rio Grande

Mule Ears

Desert Beauty

Tuff Canyon

Rocks, rocks and more rocks!

Whatever Way the Wind Blows

2010-03-06T21:48:00Z

Well, it turns out we could complain about camping on the seashore, as the tent filled with sand and the wind gusts blew the rainfly to kingdom come. When the wind wasn't blowing, Padre Island was paradise, but when it was, it was much more akin to the southern opposite of that. A lovely night was spent in Lake Corpus Christi park, which provided a warm, still alternative to the beach. While we were feeling very much kidnapped by Texas, we would like to give many thanks to both Jardi and Nicole for sharing their respective slices of Austin and Houston with us. Que fabuloso. After a second, unsuccessful fix to the van's transmission, we have arrived at the appropriately named "Lost Alaskan RV Resort" in Alpine, Texas. The van is running, but sadly in the hurky-jerky style we have unfortunately come to know. We fully intend to enjoy Big Bend country, perhaps for a long time......
Hotchkiss memories

Pecos river rock, Amistad National Recreation Area

Can't Complain About Waiting Here!

2010-02-25T18:21:00Z

We are camping on the beach at Padre Island National Seashore while we wait on the second attempt at a transmission fix on the van. The camping is primitive and remote, but free and fantastic. The weather is finally cooperating, and although it is windy, the sun is out and temps are in the 60s. Hurrah!

Campsite Paradise

South Beach, Padre Island National Seashore

Rocks in the House

2010-02-20T18:45:00Z

Well, we were hoping to be back in business by now, but it's looking like Monday or Tuesday. While we are disappointed, we are heartily enjoying the Olympics during our forced hotel stay. We love curling!!

Time Out

2010-02-16T18:45:00Z

We are paused for mechanical repairs. Happy Mardi Gras to everyone!

New Orleans

2010-02-13T16:53:00Z

2/10/2010 – 2/13/2010
A taste of Mardi Gras…

Louisiana Visitor’s Center

Riding the St. Charles streetcar

DIVA at Arnaud’s

The Elvi

Bourbon Street

Hermes Float

Jess catching a bear from the Druids

The famous shoe theme of the Muses

Booty!

J.O.B. y'all!

2010-02-08T22:17:00Z

After spending two windy, rainy, frigid days at Gulf State Park in Alabama, we decided to move over to Biloxi to try our hand at lady luck. We are literally living for free (or better!) in the casino parking lots, which is colorful to say the least and warm to say the most. Geaux Saints Geaux!

St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

2010-02-04T15:01:00Z

2/1/2010 – 2/4/2010
After the forest, we headed to the Gulf coast and out onto St. Joseph Peninsula. This narrow spit of land is nearly 30 miles long, the last 7 of which are a protected wilderness preserve. Arriving in a slight drizzle, we chose a site in the second campground, Shady Pines, which was much less crowded and more treed than its sister, Gulf Breezes. After putting up a tarp (a first for us and we didn’t even argue…much), we dug into some wine and cheese. Soon, however the rustling in the bushes became a raccoon trying to jump up on the picnic table to eat our food – while we were sitting there! Many attempts to run him off, including shouting, chasing, throwing pinecones resulted in…nothing. We stayed at the ready, shooing it away, through the rest of our meal and then retreated to the van only to hear the raccoon attempting to open our cooler. Ha ha, the trusty latch on our old steel-belted Coleman is raccoon-proof! Warnings out to those of you with the “pop-up” style lids though, which would clearly be no match for these aggressive campground dwellers.

Campsite #65

Raccoon

Closer!

The next day, the weather turned to sunny but chilly days which we spent exploring the beaches and trails. Beachcombing is terrific on the Gulf side, with lots of excellent finds and the trails are teeming with birdlife including several kinds of woodpeckers. The St. Joseph’s wilderness preserve is truly a respite from the world. However, I was disappointed each morning to hear the campground host busily using a leaf-blower to round up the smattering of pine needles around the sites. It is unfortunate to pay to camp among nature and wake not to the chirping of birds but to the pesky sounds of suburban lazy-man gadgetry. I think a rake and a broom would be quite sufficient and less disturbing to the wildlife and the guests.

Sand dunes and the beach

Gulf of Mexico

Bayside

Wilderness Preserve Trail

Shhhhh!

Anyway, back at the campsite we soaked up some sun and watched the various squirrels and cardinals try to find bits of food off our table. In the evening, we built a fire and cooked a delicious sweet potato, carrot, squash and orange pepper soup on the firepit grill. We had the raccoon visitor again, who this time did make it onto the picnic table since we were sitting near the fire. Arrghh! Jess managed to chase him off, with wild antics, a high-powered light and a fiery stick although he simply ran up a tree at a nearby campsite to wait for us to go to bed. This time we cleared all items, including the cooler, so we wouldn’t have to listen to the night time rustling. What a cheeky little guy!

Despite the small bothers, the setting at St. Joseph’s is really spectacular. The fabulous star-viewing along with the hooting of the owls makes the nights a treat and the daytime hikes along the beach, bay and inner peninsula make the days an adventure to remember. Just remember to put away all your items and watch any food – day or night!

St. Joseph Bay Trail

Gulfside

Beautiful!

Camel Lake – Apalachicola National Forest

2010-02-04T14:36:00Z

1/31/2010 – 2/1/2010
Did you know there are alligators in every freshwater lake in Florida? Except for one of course that humans remove them from in order to teach scuba diving. Sort of a scary concept if you ask me – well, at least I’m not planning on swimming any time soon. That being said, we set up camp in the beautiful Camel Lake area in the northern part of the Apalachicola National Forest. With only 10 campsites, this campground is small although very well-maintained and a steal at only $10 per night. Not more than five minutes after we arrived we were welcomed by a few long-term camper-men. Friendly folk, we shared stories around a lighter-fluid fueled campfire along with a cabbage and potato and hot dog soup. While both did the trick, it illustrated the little differences between men and women campers. Our hosts were also full of gadgets and insisted we borrow a small space heater which quite frankly, was awesome, and made all the difference during the 37 degree night. It was a fun evening of conversation and laughs – much thanks to the hospitality of the Camel Lake “residents.”

Campsite #3

Camel Lake

Guess Who?

Brrrrr!

Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge – Stephen C. Foster State Park

2010-01-31T03:50:00Z

1/29/2010 - 1/31/2010
Home to between 12,000 and 15,000 alligators, the 400,000 plus acres that comprise the Okefenokee Swamp are largely submerged under several inches to several feet of fresh water laden with tannic acid. The dark clear waters of the swamp are dotted with several upland islands and few access points. The Stephen C. Foster (Georgia) State Park provides access to the western side of the swamp and was our point of entry. The campground facilities here are exceptional- wooded and private with heated bathrooms and fantastic showers! However, the recent heavy rains have brought the swamp even closer to the campsites and, ironically, the Suwannee Visitor Center is closed due to flooding!

Suwannee Visitor Center Flooding

Stephen C. Foster State Park Campground

The swamp has a storied past. Fascinating tales of “swampers” who inhabitied this seemingly uninhabitable land – leaving only to trade animal skins for ammunition and coffee- abound. After logging the swamp’s centuries old cypress trees in the early twentieth century, the timber company sold the land to the federal government. After failed attempts to drain the swamp and the thwarting of a proposed canal route connecting the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic, FDR earmarked the swamp for preservation and thus its inclusion in the national wildlife refuge system of today. They hydrology of the swamp is, however, its defining feature. No rivers flow into Okefenokee. Rainfall supplies almost all the water to the system, which is drained by two rivers (the Suwannee to the Gulf and the St. Mary’s to the Atlantic). The most intimate way to tour the swamp is along the extensive network of canoe trails. Boat tours and boardwalk trails are also available. We enjoyed the “Land of the Trembling Earth Trail” which allows a small glimpse into this vast system.

Swamp Cypress

Land of the Trembling Earth Boardwalk Trail

Basking Turtles

Okefenokee Swamp

Crooked River State Park – Cumberland Island National Seashore

2010-01-29T16:33:00Z

1/27/2010 – 1/29/2010
A trip to Cumberland Island National Seashore requires a ferry ride from the quaint town of St. Mary’s, Georgia. Although camping is allowed on the island, the ferry is passenger only, so we decided to camp at the nearby state park instead. We stayed at Crooked River State Park which is a gem in and of itself with several miles of trails, a wooded campground and frontage along the Crooked River. Especially appealing is the bird life and the various observation areas set up in the park for avian viewing.

Campsite #15 at Crooked River State Park

Observation Tower along the Bay Boardwalk Trail

Wild boar

Crooked River at Sunset

We hopped on the 11:45 boat to the seashore for a day trip and had plenty of time to explore the southern end of the island before the 4:45 return journey. There have been various private residences on Cumberland Island, most notably the Dungeness mansion, a former Carnegie home. This particular house and outbuildings are presently in ruins, although there are other well-maintained privately owned homes throughout the island. We took a loop out to the beach, traversed the salt marshes, and walked among the live oaks shading the center strip of the island. This quiet yet wild island is exemplified by the wild horses roaming the trails and beach. Cumberland Island offers a glimpse into the golden days of southern entertaining as well as conservation and private ownership working in concert.

Wild horses on Cumberland Island

Dungeness ruins

Oyster beds in the salt marsh

Seashore

Seashore

Parallel Trail

Cumberland Lady ferry

Lastly, if you want to wet your whistle, there is no finer place than Seagle's Saloon in St. Mary's. Look forward to some hilarious trash talk and sass from the colorful Miss Cindy.

Little Talbot Island State Park

2010-01-27T19:23:00Z

1/24/2010 – 1/27/2010
Heading to the northeastern corner of Florida, we stopped for lunch in the historic seaport of St. Augustine. After using a bit of the wi-fi, we took the scenic A1A highway up the coast, over the St. Johns River ferry, ending on Little Talbot Island. The campsites are nestled among the trees, providing a peaceful experience. The shade must be great in the summer, but this morning the van was a chilly 46 degrees! Needless to say we headed out to the beach and trails for some sun every day.

Campsite #25 at Little Talbot Island State Park

Little Talbot Island is managed as a part of seven state parks in the area, including Big Talbot and Amelia islands which have several hikes through the hammocks, salt marsh and along the beach. We took the “hiking trail” to the beach in Little Talbot. This two mile path winds through scenic longleaf pines, live oak and magnolia woodlands, culminating in sand dunes of varying age and vegetative cover. The five miles of protected beach at Little Talbot are sweepingly expansive at low tide, but quite narrow at high tide.

Armadillo

Jellyfish

Little Talbot Island Beach

Sand Dunes

Live Oak Hammock Trail

Big Talbot Island is home to the short half mile Black Rock Trail, which leads to another protected beach along the Atlantic Coast that is home to the “boneyard,” an area where sandstone deposits and entire trees of driftwood define the landscape. Tidal creeks connect the Atlantic to the intercoastal marshes, the sandbar creates a protected “wave-free” area and the beach is simply gorgeous for a stroll!

“The Boneyard” from Black Rock Trail

Big Talbot Island

Big Talbot Island

Sandstone

Driftwood

Big campfires kept us warm at night, along with a delicious combo of spicy potato/corn chowder and a Carmenere. We enjoyed quiet nights under the bright moon and stars in these fantastic campsites. However, the addition of a large camo-clad neighbor with a yappy Pomeranian and a blasting country radio this morning makes us glad we are on the move. Good riddance noise pollution! A stop at the local fruit/veggie/firewood stand on Amelia Island has us stocked and ready to check out the Georgia state parks. Yippee!

Fort Wilderness - Disney World

2010-01-27T18:58:00Z

1/21/2010 – 1/24/2010
A campground at Disney World?? Who knew? Certainly not me, but Jessica has been staying at Fort Wilderness since the late 70’s when the “cabins” were actually Airstream trailers. Now the cabins are nice permanent log fixtures and the campground has RV spots that include cable television. We chose a site in the tent loop which was a steal at $43.00 per night, especially because the climate-controlled bathrooms had tile showers nicer than most people have in their homes. What a deal!

We threw our cares to the wind and soaked up the fun, Disney-style, with rides, movies, musical shows, fireworks, parades and gourmet eats.

Campsite #2034 at Fort Wilderness

On the boat from Fort Wilderness to the Contemporary Hotel

Lounging at the Outer Rim in the Contemporary

Fireworks from the Polynesian

Main Street U.S.A. (Magic Kingdom)

Cinderella’s Castle and the Move It, Shake It Parade (Magic Kingdom)

At the Mad Tea Party, riding the Teacups (Magic Kingdom)

On the Dumbo ride (Magic Kingdom)

Epcot Center

Flights of Wonder (Animal Kingdom)

It’s Tough to Be a Bug (Animal Kingdom)

Hoop Dee Doo Revue (Fort Wilderness)

Playin’ the Washboard at the Hoop Dee Doo

Everglades National Park

2010-01-24T18:27:00Z

1/18/2010 – 1/19/2010
Everglades National Park occupies the complete southwest corner of peninsular Florida. Although a huge park, the Everglades protects a complex of ecosystems which is a fraction of its historical size. Much of southern Florida (the area lying south of Lake Okeechobee) was once consumed by this “river of grass.” Although development and progress pushed for the drainage and subsequent channelization of the hydrology of south Florida, beautiful expanses of this complex watershed remain and are protected within the park boundaries, as well as in neighboring Big Cypress National Preserve.

We spent our two days in the Everglades accessing points of interest along the main park road, which connects Homestead to Florida Bay. Beginning with a short stop at the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center, we were quickly informed of park happenings and campground availability. We settled ourselves at the Flamingo Campground, nestled along the shore of Florida Bay, and promptly became acquainted with the infamous mosquito pressure that often characterizes south Florida wetlands. The Flamingo Campground is a fairly open campground, equipped with cold (very cold) showers and bathrooms but no electricity. It is within short walking distance of several trails as well as the Flamingo Marina. After a short stroll along the Eco-Pond trail we ate a quick dinner and took shelter from the mosquitoes.

Flamingo Campground

Eco-Pond Trail

Mosquitoes!

Numerous ranger led activities are provided by the park on a daily basis. These range from car caravans to bicycle tours. We participated in the inaugural canoe adventure tour, which took us 8.5 miles through mangrove channels and open water bodies over the course of about four and a half hours. The tour was spectacular, not to mention free! (Including equipment usage.) This extensive tour is going to be offered once a week, with a shorter canoe trip around Nine-Mile pond offered on the remaining days. These informative and complementary tours are a tremendous way to access more remote park areas with relative ease and certainly enhance any national park visit.

Coot Bay Pond

Coot Bay

Paddling!

Mangrove Canals

Mangrove Canals

Long Pine Key campground, located in a slash pine prairie closer to the park entrance is where we spent our second night. Having been driven into the van early the night before by mosquitoes, we put our extensive gear collection to use and set up our large tent as a mosquito free living and dining space.

Long Pine Key Campground

A network of hiking and biking trails extend from the campground and provide access to the “highest” (only a few feet in elevation) and driest parts of the park. Just a few miles up the road are the Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo trails which offer some of the easiest wildlife viewing. The Anhinga boardwalk trail winds through sawgrass praire and freshwater marsh systems teeming with birds and alligators. The recent cold spell in Florida resulted in quite a significant fishkill in the Everglades, as the sub-tropical species could not tolerate the record low temperatures. This major die off has attracted huge flocks of vultures, creating a rather eerie, as well as smelly, atmosphere in the marsh areas.

Vultures and Dead Fish

Despite the influx of scavengers, the beautiful flora and fauna that define the Everglades are alive and well and on full display.

Sights along the Anhinga Trail:

Key West

2010-01-21T15:16:00Z

1/16/2010 – 1/17/2010
The drive down through the keys on Florida Highway 1 is spectacular. The various colors of blue and green emanating from the Atlantic and Gulf interspersed with tiny keys, beach homes and old railroad bridges simply delight the eye.

Atlantic side

Houses on the Gulf side

Small keys and mangroves in the Gulf

Having never been to Key West before, I admit it held a bit of mystique in my mind. I expected a party town with a laid-back vibe and a cast of odd characters. I was a bit surprised at the size of the town, and the volume of people shopping in big Banana Republics and staying in discreet but well-located Crowne Plazas. We attended the nightly “sunset celebration”, famed for performing cats, oddballs, and an open happy hour on the docks. Sadly, a giant hotel has gone up where much of the celebration used to be, and the performances are dominated by professional-looking fire-eating acrobats. Oddly enough, we also found most of the little drink stands closed, although perhaps that is not a permanent thing. However, for all the “progress” and construction, at its essence Key West remains the same – a come-as-you-are amalgamation of folks trying to live free of too many fetters – clothing included!

The weather was beautiful while we were there, save for a brief rain shower (which flooded the streets in minutes, by the way). We stayed at Leo’s Campground on Stock Island, just over the bridge from Key West, and were able to ride the bus into town. There was a fabulous seafood festival in the park on Saturday with cheap delicious stone crabs, conch fritters and other ocean delights. And of course no visit to Key West is complete without some people watching along Duval Street. Saddle up to a outdoor table, grab a drink and be entertained.

Leo’s Campground – Tent Site #7

Logically, we will now be heading north, having been to the southernmost point in the U.S. and starting out this leg of the trip at Mile 0!

Mile 0

Southernmost point in the U.S.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park – Long Key State Park

2010-01-18T15:32:00Z

1/14/09 – 1/15/09
Continuing south to the keys, we enjoyed stays at two more fabulously well-maintained Florida State Parks. The recreation opportunities abound at both parks, with foot trails, canoe waterways, diving spots and much more. The campsites at Long Key are not to be missed, with tranquil (if windy) spots right on the beach. Fantastico!

Campsite #38 – John Pennekamp

Pennekamp beach

Campsite #2 at Long Key State Park

Beach walk at sunset

Boardwalk trail

Golden Orb trail

Canoe launch

Collier-Seminole State Park

2010-01-17T17:30:00Z

1/13/2010
Clues our location has changed:
1. Scurrying in bushes is squirrels, not monkeys.
2. Showers are full of piping hot, rushing water.
3. Lumpy hotel bed replaced by 300 count sheets and brand new latex mattress.
We are back in the USA!

Campsite #4 on the Tent Loop

Our first stop was at Collier-Seminole which is a Florida State Park. The weather was still cold so we were very happy to be in a wooded campsite with a fire pit. There’s just something about a campfire that makes the camping experience complete! We wandered on the nature trails and around the campground, admiring the wildlife and the tame life. We visited the large walking dredge used to build the Tamiami Trail – interesting that the same machinery is used for building both a huge shipping canal and a local roadway. We are thrilled to be back on the road, in the van and in the parks!

Walking Dredge

Black Water River

Salt Marsh

Royal Palm Trail

Roundtrippin' - Back to the Basics

2010-01-08T15:40:00Z

First of all, a belated and sincere happy holidays to all of you! Both Jessica and I enjoyed lots of time with our families and friends during the holiday season, which was lovely. We now are gearing up for our next leg of the journey, which has shaped up into a slow trip west and north, making a roundtrip to one of our favorite places thus far...the great state of Alaska. We intend to be on the road for approximately five months, exploring both national and regional parks, while hopefully dropping in on some friends along the way. Our plan is to camp almost exclusively, except for Vegas of course! This map is a loose itinerary for the lower 48, with many stops to be added in Canada and Alaska. We hope 2010 will be a fantastic adventure-filled year for all of us!

Panama

2009-11-27T19:13:00Z

10/12/09 – 11/10/09
Mountains to beaches, jungle to metropolis, farm to canal, Panama is a study in contrasts with a flavor for just about anyone. The potential for growth in Panama seems unlimited, as evidenced by loads of foreign investment. Adding to the straight investments, the monetary and tax incentives to retire in Panama are quite attractive, and it shows!

After crossing the border from Costa Rica, we spent some time in the lush mountain town of Boquete, which has recently become a haven for ex-pat retirees. In spite of the daily rainfall, we enjoyed walking around the laid-back town, which is remarkably integrated considering the large influx of North Americans. Due to this diversity, one can choose a $4.00 traditional Panamanian meal, a $65.00 wine and food pairing or anything in between. There are lots of excellent, cheap house rentals available, for those who want to try Panamanian living without much risk. We took up temporary residence in one of the apartments at the affordable yet perfectly located El Oasis Hotel.

Boquete hills

One of our favorite spots in Panama is in the town of Gamboa, which lies a mere 35 minutes from Panama City. Gamboa is an old canal zone town with large historic homes, canal frontage and access to the jungle surrounding the Chagres River. We spent a few days at Gamboa Rainforest Resort, birdwatching at the famous Pipeline road in Soberania park.

Chagres River

Pipeline Road in Soberania National Park

Watching the boats cross the Chagres from Los Lagartos Restaurant at Gamboa Rainforest Resort

After days of paperwork and administrative tasks dealing with our shipping processes, we took advantage of the beaches in Panama on Contadora Island. This small island is part of the Pearl Island chain in the Pacific and is a great spot to get away from it all. We stayed at the lovely Contadora Island Inn, which is a nice bed and breakfast in the middle of the island. Everything is within walking distance on the island, so we enjoyed exploring all the deserted beaches and snorkeling in the coral fields accessible from the shore.

Contadora Island beach

Incoming!

Of course, not to be missed is the fantastic Panama City, where we spent several days throughout our visit. The city has everything from skyscrapers and malls to historic buildings and wildlife-filled parks, not to mention access to the canal. We loved Dos Palmitos, a bed and breakfast on Ancon Hill near the canal administration building but also really enjoyed our stay at the Veneto Hotel and Casino in the heart of the city near shopping, nightlife and of course, gambling!

A Man, A Plan, A Canal, Panama!

Murals at the Canal Administration Building

Goethels Monument with Bridge of Americas in the distance

Panama skyline from the Veneto rooftop pool

While we tried to do as much as possible in Panama, the shipping procedures took much of our time and took priority over sightseeing. However, we loved everything we got to see and do and hope to return soon to explore the many other fascinating areas of this diverse country.

Success!

2009-11-20T16:06:00Z

One week after the arrival of the boat, we picked up our 6 cartons of "loose cargo". Intact, no less! My excellent taping job was not even perforated, but for the smell of pesticides. We are very proud to have shipped the van and all its contents, including 79 bars of mini hotel soap, for $705. Much thanks to all at Seaboard Marine who provided exemplary customer service. Onward and upward!