Cult of the Cougar

The End of the Road

2010-05-26T20:38:00Z

After 1 year, 9 months and 22 days, we have come to the end of our journey. Thanks so much for your enthusiastic support. May all our next adventures be incredible!

Here are consolidated links to the archives, or you can use the more detailed catagories on the left sidebar.

Alaska Marine Highway - Cross-Gulf - Juneau to Whittier

2010-05-26T19:38:00Z

For the last leg of our journey, we boarded the MV Kennicott in the capital city of Juneau for the 40 trip across the Gulf of Alaska. The first thing we noticed is that they tied all the cars down, in case of rough seas. The Kennicott is newer and built for the cross-gulf trip, with more enclosed areas, including the solarium, which made it somewhat cramped. We were thankful we had booked a small "roomette" with bunkbeds for sleeping.

Throughout the Lynn Canal and Icy Strait, there was lots of whale, sea otter and porpoise activity. The humpbacks were bubble net feeding, surfacing and even breaching!

The Glacier Bay area is amazing and diverse with snowy glaciers and treed cliffs all backed by tall snowy peaks.

We stopped in the small town of Yakutat and visited the National Park office for both Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias. Upon leaving the bay, we were treated to fantastic views of the St. Elias range.

The weather was perfect and the seas were calm, only getting to five feet. Mostly it was smooth as glass and a beautiful ride into Whittier.

Adios!

Hoonah

2010-05-23T01:45:00Z

Located just off the Icy Strait on Chichagof Island, the small Tlingit fishing village of Hoonah is so seldomly visited by individual tourists that even the residents wondered why on earth we were there. However, this lack of tourism makes for quiet recreation and a true look into a native fishing community. The first day we cruised the logging roads, making several stops for short walks in the woods. Although we had heard there was a large population of brown bears on the island, we soon realized how true that was. We saw our first bear on the other side of the first boardwalk trail overlooking the creek. Soon we ran into some local ladies who pointed out a couple of bears along the road. We made sure to make a lot of noise on the rest of our hikes! We camped overlooking False Bay where we saw bears, black-tailed deer, bald eagles and humpback whales.

Unnamed boardwalk trail - note bear to the far right

Same boardwalk trail (ISP managed)

Views of Icy Strait from FS 8530

Peat bogs and skunk cabbage

Lower Suntaheen Creek

Wukuklook Creek

Wukuklook Beach

False Bay

False Bay

The next morning we rattled back into town and ran across a deer and a bear warily eyeing each other. We spent an afternoon in town at the Misty Bay Lodge restaurant and the Office bar. The sun was shining which made it “swimming weather” for the locals who expertly jumped off the dock. In the evening we took another Forest Service road out to Freshwater Bay where we camped out on the peninsula.

Sitka black-tailed deer and coastal brown bear

FS Road 8508 Views

Splash!

Freshwater Bay

We took a short walk down to Bear Paw Lake where we spent a peaceful morning watching an ermine running the shore, woodpeckers in the trees and fish jumping in the water. We headed to the marina where we made use of the immaculate laundry and shower facilities. I was delighted to meet up with Jeff, an extended family member who owns and operates a fishing boat in the area. We spent a lovely and interesting evening on the boat eating dinner and chatting. In the morning, we caught the ferry to Juneau, having spent a fascinating time off the beaten track in Hoonah.

Bear Paw Lake

Bear Paw Lake

Views of Hoonah and the harbor

Hoonah marina

Alaska Marine Highway - Wrangell to Hoonah

2010-05-22T23:29:00Z

On Monday morning, we hopped aboard the MV Taku to travel the 26 hours to Hoonah. This ride through the Wrangell narrows is gorgeous, however, a challenge to a cribbage showdown in the bar with a couple of guys from Juneau distracted us from excess photography. We did have to take a break from all our cribbage victories to make a stop at the bakery in Petersburg. While I was afraid my memory might have been exaggerated over time, those ginger snaps are still to die for! The overnight journey was spent on the way to Sitka, and after a bit of rain, the skies cleared and we were lucky to see lots of surfacing whales and porpoises on the way to the dock in Hoonah.

Wrangell

2010-05-22T23:00:00Z

My favorite spot in southeast Alaska is without a doubt the charming berg of Wrangell. This quaint, quiet town offers just enough infrastructure and commerce combined with sweeping views and a bevy of outdoor activities. Situated near the mouth of the mighty Stikine river, Wrangell is a hidden gem for those looking for world-class salmon and halibut fishing.

Downtown Wrangell

Arriving on a Sunday afternoon, most of the businesses were closed, but we enjoyed excellent pizza and beer on the patio at the Marine Bar.

Wrangell Marina

The Marine Bar

For the night, we drove up to Nemo Point on Forest Service land and were delighted to find immaculately maintained campsites high above the Zimovia Strait. I have to say it is one of the most exceptional places I have ever camped. We built a campfire with the free provided firewood, watched the sunset over the water and listened to the birdcalls echoing across the strait.

Trail up to the last campsites

Zimovia Strait

Our campsite

Campfire!

Sunset over the strait

Zimovia Strait

In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast at the Diamond C Café, which is for sale, although you will have to beat me to it as I doubt I can resist returning to this phenomenal part of the world!

Alaska Marine Highway – Bellingham to Wrangell

2010-05-22T22:30:00Z

As we were driving up to Bellingham to catch the ferry to Alaska, we idly wondered who and what would be on the boat. Since all vehicles have to check in three hours early, we had plenty of time to peruse the parking lot. Most cars were packed to the gills including many items piled and tied on top, although conversely the “tourist” cars had almost nothing in them. The oddest vehicle was a trailer full of huge Belgian and Percheron horses who were on their way from Spokane to Ketchikan to pull the tourist trolley. We had decided earlier to not get a cabin, so we headed up to the solarium to snag a couple of deck chairs. With a sleeping bag and a Thermarest, the front row under the heaters provided a fresh breeze with enough warmth to enjoy two days of panoramic views.

The solarium

Our awesome setup

Sparkly!

Sunrise in the passage

With the sun rising at 4 a.m. and a 46 hour ride to Wrangell; we had plenty of time to get to know our neighbors on the deck and also some folks from down below. The bar on the MV Matanuska spans the width of the boat with windows on both sides, which makes for an enjoyable atmosphere where people gather to socialize, play games and various in-house instruments. There is an easy camaraderie aboard the boat, with everyone sharing their stories, destinations and plans. Some were chasing work, some returning from a winter in the lower 48 and even others moving to Alaska, sight unseen, simply looking for a new life and opportunities.

As we motored through the inside passage, we settled in to the slow rocking of the boat. It is amazing how much action there is in the channel when you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. Remote logging operations occasionally fill the water with wood debris. Everything happens via the water, including moving a house (hotel?). As we got further north we began to see porpoises and humpback whales and were even graced with a couple of orcas alongside the boat.

Commerce on the water

Orcas!

British Columbia. Super. Natural.

After a mere 38 hours, the Matanuska made its first stop in Ketchikan, which was dwarfed by two massive cruise ships in port. I am continually shocked by the size of those vessels, and in Alaska, how big they are in comparison to the tiny towns they stop in. Taking advantage of the sunny day, we enjoyed a stellar few hours atop the deck on the rest of our journey to the lovely town of Wrangell.

Downtown Ketchikan

Views toward Mitkof Island

Wrangell

Sandpoint

2010-05-12T18:13:00Z

A leisurely trip through the town of my birth brought back a flood of memories. I grew up across the border in Montana in a tiny town with few services so at the time Sandpoint was the go-to shopping, medical, entertainment and business destination. I was thrilled to find many of the same establishments alive and well. Between the mountains, the lake and a quaint but sophisticated downtown area, Sandpoint has everything to offer tourists and residents alike. Although I do admit to a hefty bias. For those of you who haven't been to the Panhandle in awhile, here's a quick trip down memory lane...

Sandpoint City Beach - I remember learning to swim here, which was more like just wading for me.

Railroad tracks across Lake Pend Orielle

The local "department" store

The market - still sparsely populated, but a beautiful building nonetheless

Ah, the theater!

Carrot juice, anyone?

The Granary - the best place to buy your chicken feed! (Now defunct)

My favorite is always the police blotter of the local paper

Yes, the Hydra still exists - and looks exactly the same inside!

Mmmmm....pie

Eve's Leaves!

The docks from the bridge to the beach and the old Garden restaurant building

Glacier National Park

2010-05-06T18:59:00Z

After spending a fabulous five days in McAllister with the magnificent Morrisons, we headed up Seeley-Swan toward Glacier National Park. Like Yellowstone, only half of the park’s roads were open because it was early in the season. This precluded us from going all the way to “the Sun”, but the trade-off was certainly the lack of visitors. Winter camping is in the Apgar day use area.

Yellowstone National Park

2010-05-04T18:56:27Z

Spanning three states, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, Yellowstone National Park was established in 1872 as America's first national park. The park is an internationally famous landmark and is one of the most visited parks in the United States. Yellowstone is home to a large variety of wildlife, extraordinary geysers and hot springs, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.Since the south entrance to the park is not open until mid-May, we headed from Jackson over Teton Pass into Idaho to hit the opening day of the west entrance. We immediately saw elk, bison and even a couple of wolves.

We stayed near Mammoth Hot Springs in the only campground in the park open year-round, which although nice, was situated a bit too close to the road for my tastes. However the campground put us within walking distance of the geothermal features in the area, which can be accessed from a series of boardwalks. At Mammoth Hot Springs, a rarer kind of spring is born when the hot water ascends through ancient limestone deposits to produce a strikingly unique landscape of flowing waters sculpting magnificent travertine limestone terraces.

We were thrilled to find the road to the canyon overlooks open to vehicle traffic. The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is an astounding sight, with rushing waterfalls and the vast canyon showing off the yellow rocks that give the park its name. The colors in the canyon are also a result of hydrothermal alteration which is, in effect, oxidation; the canyon is rusting. Most of the yellows in the canyon are the result of iron present in the rock rather than sulfur, as many people think.

Of course a visit to Old Faithful is a requisite of almost any visit to Yellowstone. With half of the earth’s geothermal features, the park holds the planet’s most diverse and intact collection of geysers, hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles. These amazing features combined with the everpresent wildlife make Yellowstone is a place like no other and a magical park to visit and enjoy.

Old Faithful

Jackson Hole – Grand Teton National Park

2010-04-22T15:47:00Z

Glacial lakes, jagged peaks and migrating elk define the landscape in the Teton Valley. The “off-season” in Jackson is short, lasting only the month of April but it remains a fantastic time to visit. Although the ski resorts have just closed and the park roads are not yet open to motorized vehicles, the majestic peaks and broad valleys are in full glory. The weather can be a bit a fickle this time of year. We descended into Jackson in a driving snowstorm only to wake up the next day to sunny to sixty degrees.

Bringing some snow into town

It’s a great time for deep hotel and dining discounts in town. We enjoyed the historic Wort Hotel and their classic Silver Dollar Bar. Just outside of town, the National Elk Refuge protects the southern reaches of their winter migration route and huge herds (>3000 head) can still be seen. And of course, the showpiece of the valley, Grand Teton National Park, which happens to be one of my favorite places on the planet. The tranquility and splendor of this region always warrant a stop, regardless of the season.
Grand Teton National Park
The Teton Range

Dinosaur National Monument

2010-04-22T02:34:00Z

Lying in both Colorado and Utah, Dinosaur National Monument is home to one of the most abundant dinosaur fossil digs. Although the park covers a huge expanse, 210,000 acres, dinosaurs (bones) are only visible in the Fossil Bone Quarry area near Jensen, Utah. The Quarry Visitor Center houses a cliff face showcasing over 1,500 fossils still embedded in the mountainside. Unfortunately, the visitor center has apparently sustained serious structural damage and is undergoing restoration with a projected reopening scheduled for fall of 2011. In the meantime, on certain days a shuttle service operates from the current trailer visitor center to some of the fossil displays – otherwise we have to settle for the virtual tour .

Arches National Park

2010-04-22T01:56:00Z

Having saturated our desire for red rocks and finding a grey windy day, we limited our trip through Arches National Park to a scenic drive along the main park roads. With over 2000 natural arches within its boundaries, this park may win the award for most aptly named. Additionally, it is extremely accessible for all types of viewing audiences. Given its proximity to Moab (just five miles down the road), not surprisingly, Arches is extremely well visited. The nearly one million annual visitors to the 76,000-acre park can feel a bit crowded and campground space is at a premium in the high season. Nonetheless, it’s a pretty place!

Arches!!

Canyonlands National Park

2010-04-22T00:01:00Z

South and west of Moab lies Utah’s largest National Park, Canyonlands. The Park is divided into districts, which are separated by the Colorado River and accessed from two main roads in either the north or south end of the park. We spent our time in the southern Needles District where the many miles of trails and slick rock hiking earned Canyonlands a spot on my list of favorite parks.
The Needles, Canyonlands National Park

The Squaw Flat Campground in the Needles has 26 beautiful campsites nestled into the canyon sides. These limited sites fill up quickly (and incidentally have a check-out time of 10:00 am!)but there are huge areas of dispersed camping available in the BLM land adjacent to the park. We spent one night in each location.
Dispersed camping on BLM land

Squaw Flat Campground, Canyonlands National Park

I chose an eleven mile hike though Big Spring and Elephant Canyons which afforded expansive views of the omnipresent sandstone spires. Hiking in the region is challenging and diverse enough to suit all interest and skill levels. I found the transitions from the valley floor riparian zones through the cryptobiotic soil crusts and the pinion pine/juniper complex to slickrock peaks fascinating enough to obscure my exhaustion from the steep climbs.

Cryptobiotic Soil Crusts

The trail up Big Spring Canyon

Elephant Canyon Trail

Sandstone Spires in Elephant Canyon

Capitol Reef National Park

2010-04-21T15:33:00Z

Deriving its name from the white-capped Navajo sandstone hoodoos (supposedly resembling the capitol building) and the extensive ridges (aka reefs), Capitol Reef National Park protects a 100 mile long monocline, a warp or wrinkle in the earth’s crust, known as the Waterpocket Fold. Although difficult to distinguish while travelling along the valley floor, the Fold is a strange phenomenon when viewed in aerial photos in the park pamphlets and visitor center. The Fruita Campground at Capitol Reef is situated among historic orchards, which, if you time your visit correctly, are free for the grazing as fruits come into season. From the campground a beautiful and rugged network of trails connects through the Cohab Canyon Trial. A steep quarter mile scramble up this trail brings the visitor face to face with sheer canyon walls and wide overviews of the Fold.
The Fruita Valley in Capitol Reef

Sheer Canyon Walls of Cohab Canyon, Capitol Reef

Cohab Canyon Trail
A ten-mile, paved scenic drive from the visitor center takes visitors into the Capital Gorge and Grand Wash sections of the park with little effort. Other trails, along Highway 12 passing through the park, lead to specific geologic features such as the impressive Hickman Bridge.

Along the Scenic Drive

Hickman Bridge

Red Canyon - Dixie National Forest

2010-04-21T02:32:00Z

Between Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks lies a different spectacle of red rock splendor in the Red Canyon area of Dixie National Forest. Occupying another striking section of Highway 12, the Red Canyon provides easy, free, and relatively crowd-less access to some outstanding isolated hoodoos and trails. Seasonally, full facility campgrounds, nestled within the Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir, are also available in the Red Canyon region, likely with far fewer crowds and significantly more shade than the nearby national attractions.
Red Canyon, Dixie National Forest
Red Canyon, Dixie National Forest
Hoodoos in the Red Canyon
Red Canyon Campground
“Tunnel” in the Red Canyon

Kodachrome State Park

2010-04-15T18:58:00Z

A peaceful clean alternative to the hustle and bustle lies a stone's throw away at Kodachrome State Park. With nice showers, several hiking trails and treed spots at the same price of the national parks, this campground is a gem!

Scenic Highway 12 - Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument

2010-04-14T17:10:00Z

Although the drive through southern Utah sometimes seems like a tour of rocks, the spectacular scenery never fails to amaze. Scenic Highway 12 from Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef is no exception. It begins high up on the plateau with sweeping vistas, only to wind down through the deep-cut canyons of Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument. This newly protected land is some of the wildest terrain in the U.S. and is in fact the last place in the Continental U.S. to be mapped. Enjoy!

Bryce Canyon National Park

2010-04-14T01:17:00Z

The hoodoos that we do...

Zion National Park

2010-04-10T15:57:00Z

Throngs of people deterred us from using the overcrowded campground or shuttle buses around Zion. Instead we opted for a drive-thru tour of this beautiful, but wildly popular park.

Sin City?

2010-04-08T23:39:00Z

More like Kiddie City! Call me old-fashioned, but I still think drinking, gambling and prostitution should be child-free activities. Nonetheless, the mid-week rates of $37 at the Monte Carlo in the heart of the Las Vegas Strip are hard to beat. For a less Disney-fied experience and a chance to shoot craps without being run over by a stroller, try the downtown casinos. We got a great weekend rate at the charming, antique-filled Main Street Station, which is steps from Fremont Street yet much quieter than the casinos directly above the music stages. For an even more gambling-oriented experience, the casinos on the state line in Mesquite, NV offer a chance to brush up on table games and poker tournaments at a cheap price. Viva Las Vegas, but next time I'll blow my money in Reno!

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

2010-04-05T15:41:00Z

Lying completely within the tribal lands of the Navajo Nation, Canyon de Chelly National Monument is unique among all sites administered by the National Park Service. And while it may be one of the least recognized monuments by name, it may also be one of the most beautiful.

Manganese Stained Walls of Canyon de Chelly

Access to the park is completely free as is use of the campground, which, although conveniently located to the park entrance, was not one of our favorites due to its proximity to the waste disposal center. Nevertheless, it was perfectly sufficient. Because the monument is located entirely within reservation land, public access to the National Monument is limited to the paved roads and scenic overlooks. There is one public trail leading to the White House Ruins on the Canyon floor. Wandering off the roads or trail is prohibited and any canyon floor access requires the services of a Navajo guide.

The visitor center and posted signs around Canyon de Chelly document the history of the Navajos and their struggles to remain on this piece of sacred ground in graphic detail. The spectacular tranquility of the canyon make is difficult to imagine gory struggles on the site. However, the peaceful beauty enables one to understand how a people could be so connected to a place. We were fortunate enough to be at the Canyon during the most recent full moon and were simply awestruck by the fiery sunset and enormous moonrise.

Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly

Sunset…

Full Moon Rising

The canyon walls vary in height from 30 to approximately 1000 feet along the length of the Canyon. And while these dimensions may not compete with another larger canyon in the region, Canyon de Chelly distinguishes itself with the diversity of the canyon floor. Narrow curves and winding rivers give way to wide, fertile fields. Today forty Navajo families still farm the canyon floor and live between its walls, among the ruins of their ancestors.

Navajo Farming on the Canyon Floor

Ruins in the Canyon

Canyon de Chelly from a South Rim Overlook

Petrified Forest National Park

2010-03-30T20:19:00Z

Petrified wood and the painted desert!

Tonto National Forest - Tortilla Flat Area

2010-03-28T20:52:00Z

After a stop in Gilbert for lunch with the fabulous Margaret, Jon and baby Stuart, we headed up the scenic Route 88 toward Tortilla Flat. We camped for free in the Tonto National Forest and enjoyed the peaceful quiet of the mountain desert.

Superstition Mountain

Starting up Route 88

Canyon Lake

Free camping, with cactus

Our morning drive took us through thousands of gorgeous blooming wildflowers and cacti.

The Fish Creek Overlook provides a resting stop, bathrooms and short trail to enjoy the stunning views.

The road is unpaved, windy, narrow and rough a few miles north of Tortilla Flat until the Roosevelt Dam but the beautiful terrain is well worth the effort, especially in the throes of springtime!

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

2010-03-28T20:36:00Z

The desert is in bloom at Organ Pipe! Spring has sprung and the layers of wildflowers, grass and cactus blooms are gorgeous. I stayed at La Siesta Motel and RV Park in nearby Ajo, AZ and enjoyed a few days of reading novels and lazing by the pool. A quick trip to Mexico for sea salt, coffee and Fresky Bon Bon made the stay near the border fantastico!

This Land is Your Land

2010-03-25T17:27:00Z

...this land is my land.... We are thrilled to be back in the realm of public lands and free camping. Gotta seize these opportunities while they still exist!

BLM land, Alamogordo, New Mexico

Gila National Forest, Forks Forest Camp, New Mexico

Canyon Rest Area, Benson, Arizona

Gila National Forest

2010-03-25T16:21:00Z

Gila National Forest
Lying within the first proclaimed Wilderness area, Gila National Forest is one of the more remote and least developed National Forests in the southwestern United States. The drive into the forest is spectacular with scenery ranging from high cool mountains with aspen and douglas fir to warm semi-arid lowlands with juniper, oak and cactus. Since it is early spring, we were treated to lots of snowy banks along the steep, winding road, which was thankfully clear. We camped at Forks Forest Camp along the Gila river, which is a Forest Service campground providing free sites up on the ridge as well as down by the river. It was a lovely, peaceful campground and the first campfire we have built in quite some time.

The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument also lie within the Gila Wilderness Area and are well worth the effort to get there. The small homes built into caves high in the faces of the cliffs are fascinating and provide a glimpse into the lives of the Mogollon people some 700 years ago as well as breathtaking views of the surrounding area.

Truth or Consequences

2010-03-22T02:24:00Z

On St. Patrick's Day, we headed for the funky desert town of Truth or Consequences. Although there are many RV parks in town, we chose to stay at the nearby picturesque Elephant Butte State Park which provides a huge number of camping spots with varying amenities at very reasonable prices. T or C, as the locals call it, is mostly known for its hot springs, although now many other alternative therapies are available, which attract a fair amount of snowbirds. We used this area mainly as a convenient stopover on the way to Gila National Forest.

Elephant Butte Lake view from our campsite

Up on the ridge, going out for corned beef and cabbage!

White Sands National Monument

2010-03-22T02:01:00Z

In the midst of the Tularosa Basin in New Mexico lies the world's largest gypsum dune field, much of which is protected as White Sands National Monument. This awesome sight attracts many visitors who picnic and sled down this desert "beach". You can also camp in the backcountry of White Sands, but it seems like an awfully sandy, windy affair to me, so we chose to simply see it during the day.

Alamogordo

2010-03-19T20:42:00Z

After crossing through the Sacramento Mountains, complete with snow and a ski area at Cloudcroft, we reached the town of Alamogordo which we appreciated for its wide array of funky signs, especially at the motels. The campground at Oliver Lee State Park was full, so we happily camped for free on adjacent BLM land.

Sacramento Mountains

BLM "campsite"

Sunset over Alamogordo

Classic indeed!

Color TV!

Who can resist staying in Alamogordo?

Carlsbad Caverns

2010-03-18T16:25:00Z

Although often quite busy, the Carlsbad Caverns are a must see. The concrete paths make these enormous and spectacular caves accessible to almost anyone. Breathtaking!

Guadalupe National Park

2010-03-17T16:55:00Z

We visited the "Top of Texas" during minor snow flurries and major college spring break fury. The park was beautiful but the crowds kept our stay brief.

Guadalupe Mountains

Visitor Center

The Cold Dance

Valley Vista from Guadalupe Peak/Devil's Hall Trail

West Texas

Rocks-n-Trees

Steps

Devil's Hall

West Texas – Big Bend Area

2010-03-16T15:54:00Z

The intriguing desert area of West Texas covering a massive amount of territory between the bookends of Big Bend and Guadalupe National Parks is a wonder to behold. What I had previously thought of as desolate land is actually dotted with thriving communities, each with its own identity. On the south end, between Big Bend National and State Parks, is the former ghost town of Terlingua, whose ambiance of music and adventure is solidly pioneered by the Starlight Theater. We camped at Las Ruinas in town which provides canvas tents, bathrooms, cooking facilities and a “lounge” in a former school bus.

Terlingua "town"

Las Ruinas

View of Big Bend NP from Terlingua

Further north, spread along Hwy 90, the tri-villages of Marathon, Alpine and Marfa are the heart of the Big Bend area. The small and picturesque Marathon provides ample opportunity for quiet reflection and star-gazing among the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Alpine is the most practical of these municipalities, with grocery and hardware stores, yet boasting revelry and music at Railroad Blues and Harry’s Tinaja. We stayed at the Lost Alaskan RV Resort which has sparkling clean bathrooms, friendly guests and a fabulous staff. Marfa is known as the artsy and sophisticated town, with massive installations at Donald Judd’s Chinati Foundation, many replanted East Coasters and a thriving dining scene at Maiya’s, Alice’s Cafe and the Pizza Foundation, to simply name a few. For a taste of the rowdy underbelly, head over to Padre’s for live music and lots of bar games. We were lucky to have a private home to stay in, which fortunately off-set the pricey lifestyle favored in Marfa.

Marfa

Marfa

Marfa

Marfa

Marfa

Heading further north into the Davis Mountains, Fort Davis seems to be the most conservative and hearty village, backed by the Fort Davis National Historic Site, the McDonald Observatory and great hiking and camping in the Fort Davis State Park.

Fort Davis

Fort Davis

Fort Davis

Fort Davis National Historic Site

View from Skyline Drive in Fort Davis State Park

In addition to these five communities, small towns such as Valentine provide opportunities for ramshackle and/or fancy living, as well as huge tracts of Texas realty available for ranches or simple off-the-grid living. With the hot days and cold nights, the desert is fantastic this time of year, providing an excellent climate for hiking and exploring the seemingly endless desert and mountains. These recreation prospects, coupled with the fascinating and fun atmosphere of the varied towns make the Big Bend area of West Texas a great place to spend a vacation, season or a lifetime.

Big Bend National Park - Central and East Regions

2010-03-14T22:04:00Z

Chisos Basin campground

Chisos Basin campsite #18

Casa Grande

Casa Grande

Views from Emory Peak hike

Emory Peak trail

Views from Emory Peak hike

Views from Emory Peak hike

Views from Emory Peak hike

Views from Emory Peak hike

Views from Emory Peak hike

Century Plant

Overlooking the Rio Grande

Rio Grande Village campsite #33

Beware of Javelinas!

Big Bend National Park - West

2010-03-10T17:49:00Z

We are thrilled to be in the beautiful Big Bend National Park. Hiking and camping opportunities abound and we are taking advantage!
West Entrance

Outside Cottonwood Campground

Hike to Mule Ears Spring

Outside Mule Ears Spring

Mule Ears Spring runoff

Old house structure on Mule Ears trail

Mule Ears

Overlooking cut across Rio Grande

Mule Ears

Desert Beauty

Tuff Canyon

Rocks, rocks and more rocks!

Whatever Way the Wind Blows

2010-03-06T21:48:00Z

Well, it turns out we could complain about camping on the seashore, as the tent filled with sand and the wind gusts blew the rainfly to kingdom come. When the wind wasn't blowing, Padre Island was paradise, but when it was, it was much more akin to the southern opposite of that. A lovely night was spent in Lake Corpus Christi park, which provided a warm, still alternative to the beach. While we were feeling very much kidnapped by Texas, we would like to give many thanks to both Jardi and Nicole for sharing their respective slices of Austin and Houston with us. Que fabuloso. After a second, unsuccessful fix to the van's transmission, we have arrived at the appropriately named "Lost Alaskan RV Resort" in Alpine, Texas. The van is running, but sadly in the hurky-jerky style we have unfortunately come to know. We fully intend to enjoy Big Bend country, perhaps for a long time......
Hotchkiss memories

Pecos river rock, Amistad National Recreation Area

Can't Complain About Waiting Here!

2010-02-25T18:21:00Z

We are camping on the beach at Padre Island National Seashore while we wait on the second attempt at a transmission fix on the van. The camping is primitive and remote, but free and fantastic. The weather is finally cooperating, and although it is windy, the sun is out and temps are in the 60s. Hurrah!

Campsite Paradise

South Beach, Padre Island National Seashore

Rocks in the House

2010-02-20T18:45:00Z

Well, we were hoping to be back in business by now, but it's looking like Monday or Tuesday. While we are disappointed, we are heartily enjoying the Olympics during our forced hotel stay. We love curling!!

Time Out

2010-02-16T18:45:00Z

We are paused for mechanical repairs. Happy Mardi Gras to everyone!

New Orleans

2010-02-13T16:53:00Z

2/10/2010 – 2/13/2010
A taste of Mardi Gras…

Louisiana Visitor’s Center

Riding the St. Charles streetcar

DIVA at Arnaud’s

The Elvi

Bourbon Street

Hermes Float

Jess catching a bear from the Druids

The famous shoe theme of the Muses

Booty!

J.O.B. y'all!

2010-02-08T22:17:00Z

After spending two windy, rainy, frigid days at Gulf State Park in Alabama, we decided to move over to Biloxi to try our hand at lady luck. We are literally living for free (or better!) in the casino parking lots, which is colorful to say the least and warm to say the most. Geaux Saints Geaux!

St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

2010-02-04T15:01:00Z

2/1/2010 – 2/4/2010
After the forest, we headed to the Gulf coast and out onto St. Joseph Peninsula. This narrow spit of land is nearly 30 miles long, the last 7 of which are a protected wilderness preserve. Arriving in a slight drizzle, we chose a site in the second campground, Shady Pines, which was much less crowded and more treed than its sister, Gulf Breezes. After putting up a tarp (a first for us and we didn’t even argue…much), we dug into some wine and cheese. Soon, however the rustling in the bushes became a raccoon trying to jump up on the picnic table to eat our food – while we were sitting there! Many attempts to run him off, including shouting, chasing, throwing pinecones resulted in…nothing. We stayed at the ready, shooing it away, through the rest of our meal and then retreated to the van only to hear the raccoon attempting to open our cooler. Ha ha, the trusty latch on our old steel-belted Coleman is raccoon-proof! Warnings out to those of you with the “pop-up” style lids though, which would clearly be no match for these aggressive campground dwellers.

Campsite #65

Raccoon

Closer!

The next day, the weather turned to sunny but chilly days which we spent exploring the beaches and trails. Beachcombing is terrific on the Gulf side, with lots of excellent finds and the trails are teeming with birdlife including several kinds of woodpeckers. The St. Joseph’s wilderness preserve is truly a respite from the world. However, I was disappointed each morning to hear the campground host busily using a leaf-blower to round up the smattering of pine needles around the sites. It is unfortunate to pay to camp among nature and wake not to the chirping of birds but to the pesky sounds of suburban lazy-man gadgetry. I think a rake and a broom would be quite sufficient and less disturbing to the wildlife and the guests.

Sand dunes and the beach

Gulf of Mexico

Bayside

Wilderness Preserve Trail

Shhhhh!

Anyway, back at the campsite we soaked up some sun and watched the various squirrels and cardinals try to find bits of food off our table. In the evening, we built a fire and cooked a delicious sweet potato, carrot, squash and orange pepper soup on the firepit grill. We had the raccoon visitor again, who this time did make it onto the picnic table since we were sitting near the fire. Arrghh! Jess managed to chase him off, with wild antics, a high-powered light and a fiery stick although he simply ran up a tree at a nearby campsite to wait for us to go to bed. This time we cleared all items, including the cooler, so we wouldn’t have to listen to the night time rustling. What a cheeky little guy!

Despite the small bothers, the setting at St. Joseph’s is really spectacular. The fabulous star-viewing along with the hooting of the owls makes the nights a treat and the daytime hikes along the beach, bay and inner peninsula make the days an adventure to remember. Just remember to put away all your items and watch any food – day or night!

St. Joseph Bay Trail

Gulfside

Beautiful!

Camel Lake – Apalachicola National Forest

2010-02-04T14:36:00Z

1/31/2010 – 2/1/2010
Did you know there are alligators in every freshwater lake in Florida? Except for one of course that humans remove them from in order to teach scuba diving. Sort of a scary concept if you ask me – well, at least I’m not planning on swimming any time soon. That being said, we set up camp in the beautiful Camel Lake area in the northern part of the Apalachicola National Forest. With only 10 campsites, this campground is small although very well-maintained and a steal at only $10 per night. Not more than five minutes after we arrived we were welcomed by a few long-term camper-men. Friendly folk, we shared stories around a lighter-fluid fueled campfire along with a cabbage and potato and hot dog soup. While both did the trick, it illustrated the little differences between men and women campers. Our hosts were also full of gadgets and insisted we borrow a small space heater which quite frankly, was awesome, and made all the difference during the 37 degree night. It was a fun evening of conversation and laughs – much thanks to the hospitality of the Camel Lake “residents.”

Campsite #3

Camel Lake

Guess Who?

Brrrrr!

Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge – Stephen C. Foster State Park

2010-01-31T03:50:00Z

1/29/2010 - 1/31/2010
Home to between 12,000 and 15,000 alligators, the 400,000 plus acres that comprise the Okefenokee Swamp are largely submerged under several inches to several feet of fresh water laden with tannic acid. The dark clear waters of the swamp are dotted with several upland islands and few access points. The Stephen C. Foster (Georgia) State Park provides access to the western side of the swamp and was our point of entry. The campground facilities here are exceptional- wooded and private with heated bathrooms and fantastic showers! However, the recent heavy rains have brought the swamp even closer to the campsites and, ironically, the Suwannee Visitor Center is closed due to flooding!

Suwannee Visitor Center Flooding

Stephen C. Foster State Park Campground

The swamp has a storied past. Fascinating tales of “swampers” who inhabitied this seemingly uninhabitable land – leaving only to trade animal skins for ammunition and coffee- abound. After logging the swamp’s centuries old cypress trees in the early twentieth century, the timber company sold the land to the federal government. After failed attempts to drain the swamp and the thwarting of a proposed canal route connecting the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic, FDR earmarked the swamp for preservation and thus its inclusion in the national wildlife refuge system of today. They hydrology of the swamp is, however, its defining feature. No rivers flow into Okefenokee. Rainfall supplies almost all the water to the system, which is drained by two rivers (the Suwannee to the Gulf and the St. Mary’s to the Atlantic). The most intimate way to tour the swamp is along the extensive network of canoe trails. Boat tours and boardwalk trails are also available. We enjoyed the “Land of the Trembling Earth Trail” which allows a small glimpse into this vast system.

Swamp Cypress

Land of the Trembling Earth Boardwalk Trail

Basking Turtles

Okefenokee Swamp

Crooked River State Park – Cumberland Island National Seashore

2010-01-29T16:33:00Z

1/27/2010 – 1/29/2010
A trip to Cumberland Island National Seashore requires a ferry ride from the quaint town of St. Mary’s, Georgia. Although camping is allowed on the island, the ferry is passenger only, so we decided to camp at the nearby state park instead. We stayed at Crooked River State Park which is a gem in and of itself with several miles of trails, a wooded campground and frontage along the Crooked River. Especially appealing is the bird life and the various observation areas set up in the park for avian viewing.

Campsite #15 at Crooked River State Park

Observation Tower along the Bay Boardwalk Trail

Wild boar

Crooked River at Sunset

We hopped on the 11:45 boat to the seashore for a day trip and had plenty of time to explore the southern end of the island before the 4:45 return journey. There have been various private residences on Cumberland Island, most notably the Dungeness mansion, a former Carnegie home. This particular house and outbuildings are presently in ruins, although there are other well-maintained privately owned homes throughout the island. We took a loop out to the beach, traversed the salt marshes, and walked among the live oaks shading the center strip of the island. This quiet yet wild island is exemplified by the wild horses roaming the trails and beach. Cumberland Island offers a glimpse into the golden days of southern entertaining as well as conservation and private ownership working in concert.

Wild horses on Cumberland Island

Dungeness ruins

Oyster beds in the salt marsh

Seashore

Seashore

Parallel Trail

Cumberland Lady ferry

Lastly, if you want to wet your whistle, there is no finer place than Seagle's Saloon in St. Mary's. Look forward to some hilarious trash talk and sass from the colorful Miss Cindy.

Little Talbot Island State Park

2010-01-27T19:23:00Z

1/24/2010 – 1/27/2010
Heading to the northeastern corner of Florida, we stopped for lunch in the historic seaport of St. Augustine. After using a bit of the wi-fi, we took the scenic A1A highway up the coast, over the St. Johns River ferry, ending on Little Talbot Island. The campsites are nestled among the trees, providing a peaceful experience. The shade must be great in the summer, but this morning the van was a chilly 46 degrees! Needless to say we headed out to the beach and trails for some sun every day.

Campsite #25 at Little Talbot Island State Park

Little Talbot Island is managed as a part of seven state parks in the area, including Big Talbot and Amelia islands which have several hikes through the hammocks, salt marsh and along the beach. We took the “hiking trail” to the beach in Little Talbot. This two mile path winds through scenic longleaf pines, live oak and magnolia woodlands, culminating in sand dunes of varying age and vegetative cover. The five miles of protected beach at Little Talbot are sweepingly expansive at low tide, but quite narrow at high tide.

Armadillo

Jellyfish

Little Talbot Island Beach

Sand Dunes

Live Oak Hammock Trail

Big Talbot Island is home to the short half mile Black Rock Trail, which leads to another protected beach along the Atlantic Coast that is home to the “boneyard,” an area where sandstone deposits and entire trees of driftwood define the landscape. Tidal creeks connect the Atlantic to the intercoastal marshes, the sandbar creates a protected “wave-free” area and the beach is simply gorgeous for a stroll!

“The Boneyard” from Black Rock Trail

Big Talbot Island

Big Talbot Island

Sandstone

Driftwood

Big campfires kept us warm at night, along with a delicious combo of spicy potato/corn chowder and a Carmenere. We enjoyed quiet nights under the bright moon and stars in these fantastic campsites. However, the addition of a large camo-clad neighbor with a yappy Pomeranian and a blasting country radio this morning makes us glad we are on the move. Good riddance noise pollution! A stop at the local fruit/veggie/firewood stand on Amelia Island has us stocked and ready to check out the Georgia state parks. Yippee!

Fort Wilderness - Disney World

2010-01-27T18:58:00Z

1/21/2010 – 1/24/2010
A campground at Disney World?? Who knew? Certainly not me, but Jessica has been staying at Fort Wilderness since the late 70’s when the “cabins” were actually Airstream trailers. Now the cabins are nice permanent log fixtures and the campground has RV spots that include cable television. We chose a site in the tent loop which was a steal at $43.00 per night, especially because the climate-controlled bathrooms had tile showers nicer than most people have in their homes. What a deal!

We threw our cares to the wind and soaked up the fun, Disney-style, with rides, movies, musical shows, fireworks, parades and gourmet eats.

Campsite #2034 at Fort Wilderness

On the boat from Fort Wilderness to the Contemporary Hotel

Lounging at the Outer Rim in the Contemporary

Fireworks from the Polynesian

Main Street U.S.A. (Magic Kingdom)

Cinderella’s Castle and the Move It, Shake It Parade (Magic Kingdom)

At the Mad Tea Party, riding the Teacups (Magic Kingdom)

On the Dumbo ride (Magic Kingdom)

Epcot Center

Flights of Wonder (Animal Kingdom)

It’s Tough to Be a Bug (Animal Kingdom)

Hoop Dee Doo Revue (Fort Wilderness)

Playin’ the Washboard at the Hoop Dee Doo

Everglades National Park

2010-01-24T18:27:00Z

1/18/2010 – 1/19/2010
Everglades National Park occupies the complete southwest corner of peninsular Florida. Although a huge park, the Everglades protects a complex of ecosystems which is a fraction of its historical size. Much of southern Florida (the area lying south of Lake Okeechobee) was once consumed by this “river of grass.” Although development and progress pushed for the drainage and subsequent channelization of the hydrology of south Florida, beautiful expanses of this complex watershed remain and are protected within the park boundaries, as well as in neighboring Big Cypress National Preserve.

We spent our two days in the Everglades accessing points of interest along the main park road, which connects Homestead to Florida Bay. Beginning with a short stop at the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center, we were quickly informed of park happenings and campground availability. We settled ourselves at the Flamingo Campground, nestled along the shore of Florida Bay, and promptly became acquainted with the infamous mosquito pressure that often characterizes south Florida wetlands. The Flamingo Campground is a fairly open campground, equipped with cold (very cold) showers and bathrooms but no electricity. It is within short walking distance of several trails as well as the Flamingo Marina. After a short stroll along the Eco-Pond trail we ate a quick dinner and took shelter from the mosquitoes.

Flamingo Campground

Eco-Pond Trail

Mosquitoes!

Numerous ranger led activities are provided by the park on a daily basis. These range from car caravans to bicycle tours. We participated in the inaugural canoe adventure tour, which took us 8.5 miles through mangrove channels and open water bodies over the course of about four and a half hours. The tour was spectacular, not to mention free! (Including equipment usage.) This extensive tour is going to be offered once a week, with a shorter canoe trip around Nine-Mile pond offered on the remaining days. These informative and complementary tours are a tremendous way to access more remote park areas with relative ease and certainly enhance any national park visit.

Coot Bay Pond

Coot Bay

Paddling!

Mangrove Canals

Mangrove Canals

Long Pine Key campground, located in a slash pine prairie closer to the park entrance is where we spent our second night. Having been driven into the van early the night before by mosquitoes, we put our extensive gear collection to use and set up our large tent as a mosquito free living and dining space.

Long Pine Key Campground

A network of hiking and biking trails extend from the campground and provide access to the “highest” (only a few feet in elevation) and driest parts of the park. Just a few miles up the road are the Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo trails which offer some of the easiest wildlife viewing. The Anhinga boardwalk trail winds through sawgrass praire and freshwater marsh systems teeming with birds and alligators. The recent cold spell in Florida resulted in quite a significant fishkill in the Everglades, as the sub-tropical species could not tolerate the record low temperatures. This major die off has attracted huge flocks of vultures, creating a rather eerie, as well as smelly, atmosphere in the marsh areas.

Vultures and Dead Fish

Despite the influx of scavengers, the beautiful flora and fauna that define the Everglades are alive and well and on full display.

Sights along the Anhinga Trail:

Key West

2010-01-21T15:16:00Z

1/16/2010 – 1/17/2010
The drive down through the keys on Florida Highway 1 is spectacular. The various colors of blue and green emanating from the Atlantic and Gulf interspersed with tiny keys, beach homes and old railroad bridges simply delight the eye.

Atlantic side

Houses on the Gulf side

Small keys and mangroves in the Gulf

Having never been to Key West before, I admit it held a bit of mystique in my mind. I expected a party town with a laid-back vibe and a cast of odd characters. I was a bit surprised at the size of the town, and the volume of people shopping in big Banana Republics and staying in discreet but well-located Crowne Plazas. We attended the nightly “sunset celebration”, famed for performing cats, oddballs, and an open happy hour on the docks. Sadly, a giant hotel has gone up where much of the celebration used to be, and the performances are dominated by professional-looking fire-eating acrobats. Oddly enough, we also found most of the little drink stands closed, although perhaps that is not a permanent thing. However, for all the “progress” and construction, at its essence Key West remains the same – a come-as-you-are amalgamation of folks trying to live free of too many fetters – clothing included!

The weather was beautiful while we were there, save for a brief rain shower (which flooded the streets in minutes, by the way). We stayed at Leo’s Campground on Stock Island, just over the bridge from Key West, and were able to ride the bus into town. There was a fabulous seafood festival in the park on Saturday with cheap delicious stone crabs, conch fritters and other ocean delights. And of course no visit to Key West is complete without some people watching along Duval Street. Saddle up to a outdoor table, grab a drink and be entertained.

Leo’s Campground – Tent Site #7

Logically, we will now be heading north, having been to the southernmost point in the U.S. and starting out this leg of the trip at Mile 0!

Mile 0

Southernmost point in the U.S.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park – Long Key State Park

2010-01-18T15:32:00Z

1/14/09 – 1/15/09
Continuing south to the keys, we enjoyed stays at two more fabulously well-maintained Florida State Parks. The recreation opportunities abound at both parks, with foot trails, canoe waterways, diving spots and much more. The campsites at Long Key are not to be missed, with tranquil (if windy) spots right on the beach. Fantastico!

Campsite #38 – John Pennekamp

Pennekamp beach

Campsite #2 at Long Key State Park

Beach walk at sunset

Boardwalk trail

Golden Orb trail

Canoe launch

Collier-Seminole State Park

2010-01-17T17:30:00Z

1/13/2010
Clues our location has changed:
1. Scurrying in bushes is squirrels, not monkeys.
2. Showers are full of piping hot, rushing water.
3. Lumpy hotel bed replaced by 300 count sheets and brand new latex mattress.
We are back in the USA!

Campsite #4 on the Tent Loop

Our first stop was at Collier-Seminole which is a Florida State Park. The weather was still cold so we were very happy to be in a wooded campsite with a fire pit. There’s just something about a campfire that makes the camping experience complete! We wandered on the nature trails and around the campground, admiring the wildlife and the tame life. We visited the large walking dredge used to build the Tamiami Trail – interesting that the same machinery is used for building both a huge shipping canal and a local roadway. We are thrilled to be back on the road, in the van and in the parks!

Walking Dredge

Black Water River

Salt Marsh

Royal Palm Trail

Roundtrippin' - Back to the Basics

2010-01-08T15:40:00Z

First of all, a belated and sincere happy holidays to all of you! Both Jessica and I enjoyed lots of time with our families and friends during the holiday season, which was lovely. We now are gearing up for our next leg of the journey, which has shaped up into a slow trip west and north, making a roundtrip to one of our favorite places thus far...the great state of Alaska. We intend to be on the road for approximately five months, exploring both national and regional parks, while hopefully dropping in on some friends along the way. Our plan is to camp almost exclusively, except for Vegas of course! This map is a loose itinerary for the lower 48, with many stops to be added in Canada and Alaska. We hope 2010 will be a fantastic adventure-filled year for all of us!

Panama

2009-11-27T19:13:00Z

10/12/09 – 11/10/09
Mountains to beaches, jungle to metropolis, farm to canal, Panama is a study in contrasts with a flavor for just about anyone. The potential for growth in Panama seems unlimited, as evidenced by loads of foreign investment. Adding to the straight investments, the monetary and tax incentives to retire in Panama are quite attractive, and it shows!

After crossing the border from Costa Rica, we spent some time in the lush mountain town of Boquete, which has recently become a haven for ex-pat retirees. In spite of the daily rainfall, we enjoyed walking around the laid-back town, which is remarkably integrated considering the large influx of North Americans. Due to this diversity, one can choose a $4.00 traditional Panamanian meal, a $65.00 wine and food pairing or anything in between. There are lots of excellent, cheap house rentals available, for those who want to try Panamanian living without much risk. We took up temporary residence in one of the apartments at the affordable yet perfectly located El Oasis Hotel.

Boquete hills

One of our favorite spots in Panama is in the town of Gamboa, which lies a mere 35 minutes from Panama City. Gamboa is an old canal zone town with large historic homes, canal frontage and access to the jungle surrounding the Chagres River. We spent a few days at Gamboa Rainforest Resort, birdwatching at the famous Pipeline road in Soberania park.

Chagres River

Pipeline Road in Soberania National Park

Watching the boats cross the Chagres from Los Lagartos Restaurant at Gamboa Rainforest Resort

After days of paperwork and administrative tasks dealing with our shipping processes, we took advantage of the beaches in Panama on Contadora Island. This small island is part of the Pearl Island chain in the Pacific and is a great spot to get away from it all. We stayed at the lovely Contadora Island Inn, which is a nice bed and breakfast in the middle of the island. Everything is within walking distance on the island, so we enjoyed exploring all the deserted beaches and snorkeling in the coral fields accessible from the shore.

Contadora Island beach

Incoming!

Of course, not to be missed is the fantastic Panama City, where we spent several days throughout our visit. The city has everything from skyscrapers and malls to historic buildings and wildlife-filled parks, not to mention access to the canal. We loved Dos Palmitos, a bed and breakfast on Ancon Hill near the canal administration building but also really enjoyed our stay at the Veneto Hotel and Casino in the heart of the city near shopping, nightlife and of course, gambling!

A Man, A Plan, A Canal, Panama!

Murals at the Canal Administration Building

Goethels Monument with Bridge of Americas in the distance

Panama skyline from the Veneto rooftop pool

While we tried to do as much as possible in Panama, the shipping procedures took much of our time and took priority over sightseeing. However, we loved everything we got to see and do and hope to return soon to explore the many other fascinating areas of this diverse country.

Success!

2009-11-20T16:06:00Z

One week after the arrival of the boat, we picked up our 6 cartons of "loose cargo". Intact, no less! My excellent taping job was not even perforated, but for the smell of pesticides. We are very proud to have shipped the van and all its contents, including 79 bars of mini hotel soap, for $705. Much thanks to all at Seaboard Marine who provided exemplary customer service. Onward and upward!

Bienvenidos, Estados Unidos!

2009-11-14T18:25:00Z

Hurray! After a relatively painless customs clearing in the Miami Free Zone, we paid for and received the paperwork at Seaboard Marine on Thursday and picked up the van in Miami yesterday. The van was mostly intact, less our keychain and compass, plus a thick layer of dust and muddy foot and hand prints. It was awesome to be back in the van and we were very happy with the shipping outcome. The container with our boxes has yet to clear customs since it is consolidated with other cargo, but we hope to pick them up (again, relatively intact!) on Monday. In the meantime, we are relaxing in the Florida sunshine although it feels awfully cold after 11 months south of the border! More entries on our Panama trip forthcoming....

Customs in the Miami Free Zone (what a clean sterile building - nothing like the other customs offices we've been in lately!)

Colony Hotel on South Beach - a little nightlife in Miami while waiting for the boat

Port of Miami - getting our authorization and one day passes

The Van!

Starts up like a charm

Missing - one Vegas keychain and one dashboard compass

Buen viaje! Hasta Pronto!

2009-11-02T19:40:00Z

We successfully cleared customs, various inspections, paid $6 to the Panama Ports and dropped the van off in the shipyard in Colon. We hope to see it (and all our belongings) in Miami next week. Although it has been quite a stressful process, we cannot say enough about the friendliness and helpfulness of the port employees. Bon voyage little van!

Cristobal Port

About half our paperwork

Stamping myself out - just kidding!

Inspection #1

Attaching the Shipping Sticker

Miami-bound!

Donning a safety vest to enter the port with the car and official escort

Final check inside the shipyard building

Adios

And now we plan to enjoy a week of true vacation in Panama..... Phew!!!!!!

What a Difference a Day Makes

2009-10-31T03:54:00Z

10/30/09
Last night, as we sat overlooking the Chagres river, I thought to myself, I sure am going to miss this place. The views were spectacular, the climate perfect, the chirping of birds divine.

Chagres River

Much to Jessica’s initial dismay, I awoke up and at ‘em at 6am. We took advantage of the dawn with birdwatching and a walk up to the observation deck atop a hill in Gamboa. This rewarded us with excellent views of the canal, the Chagres and Gamboa town along with numerous first sightings of brightly colored birds.

Up and at ‘em!

Panama Canal, Gamboa rainforest and Chagres River bridge

Rufous Motmot

A mere 24 hours later, as we sat on the same patio, my thoughts were, get me the heck outta here!

We drove off to Colon at 9:30am in hopes of clearing customs and passing the next step in our shipping process. Things started out well, as we were able to locate Seaboard Marine’s offices and customs desk. The first paperwork was stamped through in less than ten minutes which seemed like a good sign. However, at customs, we were told we needed to go to a different customs office. Shuffling of paperwork ensued, various people got involved, and soon we were on our way to Panama City (!!!) to get a specific piece of paper needed, of course totally unbeknownst to us. Without getting into the tedious ridiculous details at the moment, suffice it to say, we returned to our hotel no less than 10 hours later at 7:30pm. While we do have this particular piece of paper in hand, we still need to clear customs on Monday when we are scheduled to drop the van and boxes off at the port. We hope to relax a bit over the weekend as all offices are closed, and then, well….wish us luck!

On the way to the office in Panama City (yes, those dumpsters are on fire)

The official building for vehicle exit paperwork in Panama City

Jessica’s excellent parking lot view guarding the vehicle, while I spent countless hours waiting for signatures

Argle-Bargle!!!!

2009-10-28T23:53:00Z

10/28/09
After days of trying to procure boxes, which got us into such pickles as volunteering at a spay and neuter clinic, driving around getting rid of someone else’s moldy garbage and other such scream-inducing adventures, we finally bought some boxes and managed to pack all our items into 6 tidy, large (heavy!) boxes. Good use of the handcart and a stair-sliding technique reaped the rewards of being all packed up in the van. Phew!

Pre-packing fun

Feeling accomplished and proud of ourselves, we filed the necessary paperwork with our shipping company. A quick response back from our trusty contact, Vanessa, noted the fact that Tuesday next week was a Panamanian holiday, which meant customs would be closed Monday – Wednesday and perhaps all week. In fact the whole port would be closed on Tuesday, which was the stated and printed drop-off date on our contract. Therefore we need to clear customs by Friday….in Colon – a seven hour drive from our current location. Of course we had already made a lovely set of plans to go to the beach, a mountain town, a Sunday market and the rainforest in the coming days, along with another itinerary flying to the Caribbean coast after our proposed Tuesday drop-off. So today was spent trying to clarify how to clear customs in advance, plus cancelling all reservations and plans. Luckily, we are all packed and ready to go, so hopefully the hassles will be few and we will finally be able to enjoy a relaxed time in Panama when the van and our boxes are loaded on the ship and headed toward the states. Until then, hopefully a few hands of bridge and handfuls of Valium will ease the pain.